Posted at 10:59h in Reviews, Wines by 0 Comments
In this week’s Ha’aretz, Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov tastes wines from the Alexander Winery, Gat Shomron Winery, and Tishbi winery.
Wine and Spirits / Greats from Alexander
Located on Moshav Beit Yitzhak in the Sharon region, the Alexander winery, founded in 1996 by Yoram Shalom, receives grapes largely from contract vineyards it controls at Kerem Ben Zimra in the Upper Galilee. It has mainly produced Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and now coming on line are Syrah and Grenache. Growth has been steady, increasing from about 12,000 bottles in 2002 to 45,000 in 2005 and 2006. With the 2006 vintage the winery switched over to kosher production. In addition to producing two top-of-the-line series, Alexander the Great and The Wine of Alexander, the winery also releases two blended red wines, Sandro and Gaston as well as white Liza wines.
Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Medium to full-bodied, dark ruby in color, with soft tannins; showing vanilla and spices from the casks in which it aged. On the nose and palate, rich black currant and blackberry fruits along with hints of earthiness.
Drink now-2010. NIS 135. Score 88.
Alexander, Syrah, 2006: Medium-bodied, soft and round, showing gently spicy, rich wood and vanilla notes, and opening on the palate to reveal red berries and plums, supported nicely by a light meaty hint and a milk-chocolate finish. Very nice. Drink now-2010. NIS 135. Score 88. K.
Alexander, Gaston, GMS, 2005: Despite the order and hint of its labeling, a blend of 76% Merlot and 12% each of Grenache and Syrah. Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, aged in barriques for 12 months. On first attack generous wood on both nose and palate, which recedes nicely to reveal currant, wild berry and plum fruits on a just spicy enough background. Well balanced and long. Drink now-2010. NIS 155. Score 88.
Alexander, Sandro, 2006: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 5% Sauvignon Blanc. Dark ruby in color, reflecting its 14 months in barriques with dusty wood and soft, gently gripping tannins. Opens to reveal appealing currant, wild berry and orange peel notes, with tannins and fruits rising on the finish. Drink now-2010. NIS 100. Score 87.
Alexander, Sauvignon Blanc, Liza, 2007: Aged partly in stainless steel and partly in oak for 7 months, showing primarily pineapple and green apple notes, a simple wine, lacking acidity and meant for early drinking. Drink up. NIS 80. Score 80.
Alexander, Chardonnay, Liza, 2006: When I first tasted this wine about a year ago, I had hoped that it might open and show greater charm. It has not. Flat on the nose, aged in oak for about 16 months, showing primarily citrus and apple fruits but lacking acidity that would have made it lively. Clumsy and without charm. Drink up. NIS 80. Score 79.
Four from Gat Shomron
Gat Shomron, Syrah, 2005: Aged in French and American barriques for 14 months, ruby to garnet, medium- to full-bodied with soft, well-integrated tannins and a gentle hand with the oak. Showing appealing berry, black cherry, raspberry and blackberry fruits, with notes of tar and charcoal. Round and satisfying. Drink now-2010. NIS 100. Score 87.
Gat Shomron, Merlot, 2006: Super-dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins, generous spicy wood and a whopping 15.8% alcohol content. Opens with a marked alcoholic nose that yields to berry, black cherry and plum fruits, on a lightly spicy background. With tannins and alcohol rising, this wine finishes hot. Drink now. NIS 140. Score 83.
Gat Shomron, Cabernet Sauvignon, Galilee, 2006: Aged for one year in 300-liter oak casks, medium-bodied, with somewhat chunky, country-style tannins and opening to reveal berry, currant and black cherry fruits on a lightly spicy background. Drink now. NIS 90. Score 84.
Others of interest
Ruth, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2006: A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, developed in oak for 12 months, showing medium- to full-bodied, soft and round with blackberry, currant and black cherry fruits highlighted by notes of bittersweet chocolate and tobacco. Drink now-2010. NIS 78. Score 87.
Ruth, Shiraz-Merlot, 2006: A medium- to full-bodied blend of equal parts of Shiraz and Merlot, aged in new oak for 15 months. A country-style wine showing generous oak, chunky tannins and what many will consider more than ample acidity. Opens to show red plums and raspberries on a peppery background. Drink now-2009. NIS 112. Score 84.
Ruth, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: Reflecting its prolonged development (30 months) in barriques with generous spicy wood along with hints of sawdust, a full-bodied wine showing poached red plums and cherry pudding notes, on a background of licorice and Mediterranean herbs, all with a rather sweet overlay. Drink now. NIS 125. Score 80.
Tishbi, Shiraz, Estate, 2006: Oak-aged for 12 months, dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, opening with a whiff of alcohol that lingers uncomfortably on both nose and palate and hides the black fruits that struggle to make themselves felt. Drink now. NIS 95. Score 82.
Tishbi, Pinot Noir, Estate, 2006: Light- to medium-bodied, with a somewhat muddy garnet color, showing far too much volatile acidity and, on the nose and palate, forward red berry and strawberry fruits, the kind that one expects from a red lollypop. Drink up. NIS 95. Score 80.
