July | 2011 | HaKerem: Israeli Wine

When Carmel was founded in the 19th century, it will surprise many to know that the wineries of Rishon Le Zion and Zichron Ya’acov were considered extremely advanced for their time. Cuttings for the new vineyards were taken from Château Lafite, the first winemaker was from Bordeaux and the viticulturists were from France. Even the winemaking consultant was also from Lafite. Baron Edmond de Rothschild set the bar high, but it took nearly 120 years before his dream and vision would really be fulfilled.

In those days, needs were different and the local market was only ready for inexpensive, simple wines. Carmel filled the place that was then demanded by the consumer, who was only interested in wine at a certain price and with the correct Kashrut certificate. Quality was not an issue.

For over 100 years, Carmel simply was Israel wine. Carmel not only kept the Israeli wine industry afloat, but took upon itself the responsibility to supply wine to Israelis everywhere and Jewish communities worldwide. This was before food became a branded item in Israel and way before wine was seen as anything close to representing a quality lifestyle.

Carmel was at the dawn of the quality revolution in Israel, reintroducing Cabernet Sauvignon, marketing the Israel’s first varietal wines and launching the legendary Carmel Cabernet Sauvignon Special Reserve 1976. However this revolution was later to gather pace and leave Carmel behind and though still dominant in the mass market, the company was to experience financial difficulties.

Roll on to the 2000’s and Carmel began its own impressive quality driven revolution. New vineyards were planted, new boutique wineries were built, and a new winemaking team was appointed. The company returned to profitability and the new management team changed the whole focus of the winery from mass to quality and from sacramental to single vineyard wines. One by one, each label received attention in turn, in terms of new packaging and improving the quality of the final product.

The results have been an unprecedented turnaround in Carmel’s fortunes and a rejuvenation of the winery’s image. The winery has also had its successes to show that the talk of new quality was not just marketing hype. For instance, the premier wine of Yatir Winery, Carmel’s wholly owned subsidiary, became the first Israeli wine to receive 93 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. Carmel’s flagship wine Limited Edition received 91 points from The Wine Advocate. Carmel’s Single Vineyard Kayoumi Shiraz won both The Regional Trophy and The International Trophy at the prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards.

Once the names ‘Carmel’ and ‘Carmel Mizrahi’ only symbolized inexpensive supermarket wines, kiddush wines and grape juice. Today in a show of confidence and pride in the new Carmel, the winery has decided to bring its ultra premium and prestige wines together under the Carmel label. “Carmel Fine Wines’ will be used as the umbrella name for the finest wines produced by the resurgent Carmel Winery.

Within this new series are Carmel’s existing flagship wines, Carmel Limited Edition and Carmel Mediterranean, which are both blends, and they will be joined by the newly labeled Carmel Single Vineyard wines, which are varietals representing the terroir of individual vineyards. The wines have simple, elegant labels. The hand-drawn drawings on cream labels and long red capsules are almost Bordeaux in style as befitting Carmel’s French origins. Whereas the Limited Edition and Mediterranean both feature a drawing of a winery on the label, the single vineyard wines appropriately feature a drawing of the relevant vineyard.

Carmel was the first of the larger wineries in Israel to introduce a single vineyard series. The first wine was the Ramat Arad Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 and the wines throughout the first decade of the 21st century were named after the particular vineyard. Vineyards used included Ben Zimra, Har Bracha, Ramat Arad, Tabor, and Zarit. Changes each year were determined by quality and by the desire that only the best and finest would merit being released as a single vineyard wine. The current wines holding the single vineyard beacon are Kayoumi Cabernet Sauvignon, Kayoumi Shiraz, and Sha’al Gewurztraminer. These wines will be now under the new Carmel Single Vineyard label.

The stable of Carmel Fine Wines therefore now includes the following wines. The relevant scores awarded by Daniel Rogov (DR), Israel’s most influential wine critic, are also shown below.

CARMEL FINE WINES

Carmel Limited Edition 2007 This is the flagship wine of Carmel Winery. It is a blend featuring the five main Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. All come from Upper Galilee vineyards. Deep purple in color, the wine has an aroma of black plum, violets and tobacco leaves. It is elegant, old world in style, with a long balanced finish. The label features a drawing of Rishon Le Zion Wine Cellars, Israel’s first commercial winery, built in 1890.

DR: 93 points