Inaugural U.S. Grand Tasting to Feature 20 Premier Israeli Wineries
NEW YORK, Jan. 22 /PRNewswire/ — Wines of Israel will be hosting the first ever extensive tasting of Israeli wines in New York City for members of the wine trade and media on Tuesday, February 3, 2009. The Grand Tasting, which will take place at the Prince George Ballroom from 11 AM – 4 PM, will feature more than 100 premium Israeli wines from 20 of Israel’s most celebrated wineries. Mark Squires, Wine Critic for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and Victor Schoenfeld, Chief Winemaker for Golan Heights Winery, will be hosting two seminars during the tasting entitled Israel 101 from 12 – 1 PM and 2 – 3 PM. The Grand Tasting will include wines from various regions throughout Israel including the Galilee, Golan Heights, Shomron, Samson, Judean Hills, and the Negev. The event is being organized by the Israel Economic Mission to North America and the Israel Export & International Cooperation Institute.
“Today, Israel produces some of the most sophisticated wines in the world, bringing a cosmopolitan knowledge of modern methods and technology to a wine-growing tradition more than 3,000 years old,” said Yair Shiran, Israel’s Economic Minister to North America. “The marked rise in quality of Israel’s wines over the past decade has enabled the industry to satisfy the demands of the discerning world wine market.”
“Winemaking is a large part of Israel’s rich history that is widely unknown in the U.S.,” said Michal Neeman, Food & Beverages Executive with The Israel Export & International Cooperation Institute. “This momentous tasting will help bring Israel’s winemaking legacy to life for key members of the American wine trade as well as showcase the current state of Israel’s thriving modern wine industry.”
Continue reading Professional Israeli wine tasting in New York
The French make Malbec as a blending agent, but it’s far better known as a distinctive Argentinian wine. But now, Israel’s first varietal Malbec has arrived in Israel.
The ever improving Teperberg 1870 has just released a Malbec in the Terra series (Terra 2007 Malbec). It should hit Israel’s wine stores this week, and will most likely be exported within a few months. While used as a blending agent in France, like with Argentinian wine, this first Israeli varietal contains 100% Malbec.
According to Moti Teperberg, the manager of the winery, as part of their rapid improvements (just a few years ago Teperberg, formerly known as Efrat, was just making “kiddush wine”) they are planting new varietals.
Daniel Rogov tasted the wine, as part of a larger Teperberg tasting and this is his notes:
Teperberg, Malbec, Terra, 2007: Developed in new French and American oak barriques for 12 months, dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins well balanced by notes of sweet toast and vanilla. On the nose and palate plums, black cherries, and notes of cocoa. Not an Argentinean nor a Cahors Malbec but one with a distinct Mediterranean personality. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 65. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2009)
The suggested retail price in Israel is 65NIS.
(Foodis has a Hebrew article about this wine)
Israeli Wine
By: Natasha Hughes
This article first appeared in Decanter
In the Bible, Israel is referred to as a land of milk and honey. To the once-nomadic desert tribesmen who settled there a few thousand years ago, it must have seemed a veritable agricultural paradise; a land where all kinds of grain, fruit and vegetables grew abundantly, one where livestock fattened and grew plentiful.
This was also a land where vines thrived, and there are many references in the Old Testament and Talmud to drinking and drunkeness. Indeed, Jewish tradition encourages its people to take part in ritual drinking during certain festivals. Four cups of wine are drunk during the course of the seder or Passover dinner and, during the festival of Purim, Jews are enjoined to drink to the point where they cannot tell Haman (the bad guy) from Mordechai (the hero).
But, in the intervening centuries of the Diaspora, Israel’s winemaking tradition was all but forgotten. As Jewish settlers began to trickle back into the country during the 19th and 20th centuries, an enthusiasm for viticulture was reawakened, although the end product would probably not be to the taste of the modern connoisseur. Sticky, sweet sacramental wines produced from overcropped, high-yielding vines were the order of the day and few producers looked to a market outside Israel. What there was of it consisted of a handful of religious Jews, scattered to the four corners of the globe, who insisted on drinking kosher wines.
‘Vine growers didn’t make wine in Israel, a situation that lasted for 120 years,’ explains Domaine de Castel’s Eli Ben Zaken. ‘As a result, there was always a conflict of interest between growers with their high yields and winemakers with their low prices. The wines were selling because they were kosher rather than thanks to any merit of the wines themselves.’
Things began to change in the 80s, in part at least a consequence of Israelis’ developing interest in gastronomy. As more young Israelis travelled abroad, the influence of foreign cuisines and winemaking began to be felt in their native country. And, not only did Israelis start importing quality wines, a small handful began to dream about making their own.
As you drive northwards from Tel Aviv up towards the Golan Heights, the hotly disputed wall built to contain the West Bank Palestinians runs parallel to the main north–south highway for a few kilometres as it cuts its way across the countryside like an angry scar. Groups of soldiers punctuate the crossroads. Dressed in fatigues, a wary hand resting on the butts of their rifles, most of them are little more than teenagers. As you reach the turn off to Jenin, the isolated groups become clumps, a copse of soldiery. It’s an image of Israel that we all recognise from the newspapers and TV broadcasts.
Yet Israel has another reality, one that co-exists alongside the tension and conflict of a nation enmeshed in a state of permanent strife, a reality that involves everyday people going about their everyday lives in an ordinary sort of way. The Bazelet Hagolan winery is located on a peaceful hilltop – a trace of morning mist still wreathes the vineyard in a blanket of quiet calm – and Asaf Kedem sounds like other winemakers the world over as he describes his vineyards with pride. ‘The grapes from the Golan Heights already show great quality,’ he says. ‘Each vineyard produces wines with different aromas, but in general you’ll find a trace of eucalyptus. On the whole, the wines made here are full-bodied, but the temperature differentials create wines with good acidity and balance.’
It was here, in the high hills of northern Israel, that the drive to create quality Israeli wines was born. The first vineyards were planted in the late 70s, and many wineries still source their premium grapes in the region, putting the Golan, and the rest of the Upper Galilee terroirs, at the heart of the drive for quality.
‘I think the Upper Galilee is one of the best growing regions in the world,’ says Barry Saslove, a former wine lecturer who now runs his own winery, sourcing most of his grapes in the Galilee. ‘The basalt soil is really rich, with lots of terrarossa, and beneath there’s limestone, which draws the roots downwards.’
Not only does the Upper Galilee benefit from its volcanic soils, the climate (strongly influenced by the high altitude) is also conducive to the cultivation of top-notch grapes, with cold winters and warm summers, and dramatic temperature differences between night and day. At the moment, the area is best known for its Cabernet and Chardonnay, but there’s growing interest in the Syrah cultivated in the area.
The other region to win early recognition for the potential quality of its wines is the Judean Hills. Ben Zaken, who planted his first vineyards in 1988, was one of the area’s pioneers. The vineyard he owns in the Kesalon Valley is located not far from the city of Jerusalem, and its stone terraces trace the outline of earlier terraces that may well date back many centuries to the Roman era or beyond. Le Vallon is surrounded by green oaks and is wreathed in the aromas of the garrigue of southern France – and it’s not just the local flora that evokes comparison.
‘We’ve got a combination of clay, terrarossa and limestone soils here,’ explains Ben Zaken. ‘They’re very similar to those found around Montpellier in the Languedoc.’
Thanks to the proximity of the sea, there are certain similarities in climate between the two areas as well, although that of the Judean Hills is tempered by altitude, with long, hot summer days and chilly, damp nights.
Although the Galilee and Judean Hills are where the action’s at – for the moment at least – another area showing promise is the Negev or, to be more specific, the high-altitude areas on the northern fringes of this southern desert. There the warm summers with cool nights and well-drained calcareous clay soils combine to produce wines with their own distinctive style.
‘The Cabernet we’ve got here isn’t typical Bordeaux Cabernet,’ explains Yatir’s winemaker Eran Goldwasser. ‘It’s more earthy, with red fruit and cherries – and, thanks to the cool nights, it isn’t at all jammy.’
Israel has two further grape-growing regions, Shomron and Shimson, but, by and large, the heavyish soils and warm climate don’t tend to result in the production of fine wines. Quality-focused winemakers in these areas tend to own vineyards or buy in grapes grown in other regions.
Although most top-end winemaking, up until now, has been focused on the production of Bordeaux-style reds and Burgundian whites, many among the younger generation of winemakers are looking for other grapes, ones that may well be better adapted to the range of terroirs.
Clos de Gat, which is based in the Ayalon Valley in the foothills of Judea, is fast gaining a reputation for its Cabernet-based blends and its Chardonnay, but winemaker Eyal Rotem is already experimenting with other grapes. ‘We’ve started making a Syrah,’ he says. ‘I think the variety suits the climate the soil here. We’re also growing some Viognier to blend in with the Syrah – I’m looking towards France in terms of the style of wine I want to make from it.’
Asaf Paz, based at Carmel’s Zichron winery, is enthusiastic about the potential of a whole range of white varietals. ‘I’d like to see varieties like Riesling and Gewurztraminer planted in the north, but also grapes like Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. Even Sauvignon Blanc can do well up north, as long as it’s handled correctly.’
Elsewhere, winemakers are experimenting with Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo, Malbec and Petite Sirah. Even the much-maligned Carignan is coming under new scrutiny. ‘We have a lot of old vines once used to make simple table wines,’ says Paz, ‘but if they’re managed right they should make great wines.’
Even the definition of what makes a great wine is being redefined as the new wave of Israeli winemakers look further afield than France for their inspiration. ‘The wonderful thing about making wine here is that we don’t have to follow anyone’s rules,’ explains Saslove. ‘I hope that means that our wines develop their own style. Why should we be bound by the conventions of either the Old or the New Worlds?’
‘We’re fusion winemakers,’ echoes Goldwasser. ‘We get the best of both worlds. We’re not limited by appellation laws, we can choose which varieties we want to plant and where we plant them and use modern technology. But a lot of emphasis goes on specific vineyard plots and we’re also very cautious in our use of oak. I think what the professionals are looking for is New World fruit with Old World elegance – although that’s not necessarily what the public wants.’
And it is the younger winemakers, people like Goldwasser, Paz and Rotem, most of whom have trained overseas, who are driving the wholesale reassessment of terroir, viticulture and winemaking that is revolutionising the Israeli wine industry. Together with a handful of earlier pioneers, they are looking to create an entirely new future for the country’s wines. One can only hope that, in the long term, their optimism and dynamic attitude will be rewarded by a growing interest in the wines they produce, and a shift in emphasis towards the ‘other’ Israel.
(This originally appeared on Wines Israel)
 |
By: Adam Montefiore
Lets destroy some popular misconceptions: Not all kosher wine is made in Israel and not all Israeli wine is kosher! Nowadays nearly every wine producing country in the world produces kosher wine and in Israel, just to be confusing, many of the newer, smaller wineries make non-kosher wine. However it is tru
e to say that the majority of wine made in Israel is kosher.
This should not be regarded as unusual. In the same way you would expect a French winemaker to speak with a French accent, or an Italian winery to have an ‘ i ’ at the end its name, you should not be surprised that Israel makes kosher wine. Likewise in the same way New Zealand specializes in Sauvignon Blanc and Argentina in Malbec, Israel specializes in kosher wine. Nothing wrong in that. Unfortunately the word ‘kosher’, where wine is concerned, is almost a pejorative term. If it is kosher, there are those who believe it can’t be good.
Usually Israeli wineries prefer to ignore the ‘k’ word. It is obviously supremely important for those that need it, but apart from this, wineries want to be known for producing great wines, whether kosher or not. However for many wine lovers and others ignorant about its effect, the kosher certificate is seen as nothing less than a mark of Cain. So let’s meet the ‘k’ word head on.
Oldest Wine Laws
The kosher wine laws are the oldest wine laws in the world. France may boast about its Appellation Controllée system and Cru Classé classification, which have roots that may go back hundreds of years, but the Kosher wine laws are measured in thousands. Some of these laws (orla, kilai hakerem) still make sound agricultural sense.. Others (like shmittah, trumot & maserot) are today regarded as more symbolic. In Biblical times though, they were revolutionary, addressing the profoundest issues of spirituality v’s materialism, economic justice and ecological sustainability. One thing is for certain, not one of the kosher wine laws may be held as a reason for making poor wine.
Continue reading Kosher and Proud of It
In Daniel Rogov’s weekly column in Ha’aretz he reviews some of the best wines of 2009.
Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve 2005: Almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, this wine is both concentrated and elegant. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc, opening with spicy, mocha-tinged blackcurrants, those yielding to blackberries, herbs and light oak. Hints of light sea salt and leather on the super-long finish make the wine intriguing. Perhaps the best yet from the winery. Drink now-2015. NIS 110. Score 94.
Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2007: Intense and concentrated, so firmly tannic at this stage that you might think it searing. No fear, however, for those tannins are in fine balance with wood and fruit, the wine shows an enviable structure and all that is required for this one to show its glory is time. Destined to always be muscular, those muscles with an elegant and not at all showy note, as the wine develops look for currant, black cherry and blackberry fruits, those with hints of black pepper, nutmeg and licorice, all leading to a long, generous finish. Best 2012-2020. NIS 320. Score 94.
Yatir, Yatir Forest, 2006: Deep garnet in color, with orange and purple reflections, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot ?(50%, 38% and 12% respectively?), oak-aged for 16 months in French oak. Ripe, round and generous, with caressing tannins and a gentle spicy wood influence, opens to reveal layer after layer of currant, plum, blackberry, mocha, and floral notes, all of which linger on a superbly long and mouth-filling finish. A wine that boasts intensity together with grace and elegance. One of Israel?s very best. Approachable and thoroughly enjoyable now, but this is one for aging and will be at its best from 2011-2020, perhaps longer. NIS 230. Score 94. K
Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, Yarden, 2004: Perhaps the best Syrah ever in Israel. Extraordinarily deep ruby, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Opens with a burst of almost jammy raspberries and kirsch liqueur, those yielding to blackberry, cherry and plum fruits. In the background generous hints of anise and Oriental spices and a hint of freshly tanned leather. Enjoyable now but best 2011-2018. NIS 170. Score 94. K
Clos de Gat, Merlot, Sycra, 2006: Full-bodied, reflecting its 20 months in new oak with generous spicy wood and equally generous but softly mouth-coating tannins, those in fine balance with fruits and acidity. Opens with currant, purple plum and mocha notes, those yielding to blackberry, citrus peel and light herbal and tobacco overtones. Drink now-2016. NIS 250. Score 93.
Galil Mountain, Yiron, 2005: A Bordeaux blend with a hint of Syrah added − that is to say, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, plus 4% Syrah. Full-bodied and concentrated but simultaneously soft and elegant, with generous cassis and black fruits, with velvety tannins and reflecting its 16 months in oak with gently spicy and dusty wood, all of which lead to a super-long finish. Perhaps the best to date from the winery. Approachable and enjoyable now, but best 2011-2016. NIS 100. Score 93. K
Pelter, T-Selection, Cabernet Sauvignon, T-Selection, 2006: With 20 months in new French barriques, a generously oaked wine, near-sweet because of its 15% alcohol content. Dark garnet in color, with generous velvety tannins that match the oak. Opens in the glass to reveal blackcurrants and black cherries, those along with tarry and spicy notes, and, rising on the very long finish, notes of sweet chewing tobacco. A California-style blockbuster but yielding in the glass to show its own kind of muscular elegance. Drink now-2015. NIS 150. Score 93.
Recanati, Special Reserve, 2005: Deep royal-purple, full-bodied with firm, still rough-edged tannins, those integrating nicely with light spicy wood and fruits to show fine balance and structure. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, this is a big, rich and bold wine, with concentrated layers of currant, blackberry, anise and cedary oak flavors. Drink now-2013. NIS 165. Score 93. K
Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2006: A blend focused on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, those flushed out with Petit Verdot and Malbec. Firm, solid and intense, dark garnet in color, full-bodied and firm on first attack but then opening to show a generous array of blackberries, black cherries, currants and dark chocolate. Dense, rich and complex, with hints of near-sweetness that toy comfortably on the palate, with tannins that grip comfortably and in fine balance with wood and fruits. Long and generous, muscular and intense but with a distinct note of elegance. Drink now-2014. NIS 230. Score 92. K
Carmel, Limited Edition, 2005: A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc ?(65%, 17%, 15% and 3% respectively?). Deep garnet in color, medium to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins and reflecting its 15 months in barriques with light toasty and spicy oak. Blackberry, black cherry and purple plums fruits on first attack yield to black currants and appealing hints of lead pencil and vanilla and, on the long, mouth-filling finish, a near-sweet and elegant tobacco note. Round and elegant. Drink now-2013. NIS 230. Score 92. K
And one worth waiting for:
Dalton Matatia, 2006: A Bordeaux blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Developed in new French oak, very deep and dark in color. On first attack aromas of mint, tar and a hint of iodine, those remarkably and perhaps surprisingly pleasing. Yields in the glass to reveal generous blackberry, blackcurrant and bitter orange peel notes, and finally, on the long finish, hints of espresso coffee. With fine balance between wood, acidity, tannins and fruits, a thought-provoking and delicious wine. Produced in a limited edition of 6,000 bottles and will come to market in about two months. If I had to find a single word to describe the wine, that word would be “scrumptious.” Score 93.
UPDATE: Due to the ongoing security situation in and near the Gaza border, this event was postponed.
Golan Heights Winery is about to release its flagship, age-worthy wine the Yarden Katzrin 2004. The Katzrin, a Bordeaux-style blend, is known to have an aging potention of upwards of a decade and is only released in good years.
Golan Heights Winery’s Katzrin premium Israeli wine
The 2004 vintage will be released tomorrow at the winery on the Golan. However, not everyone (myself included) will be able to make it. Therefore, the winery has decided to live broadcast the release online.
At 11:15 AM Israel time GMT+2 (4:15AM for those on the US east coast… sorry), on Monday January 5, you can join the CEO of Golan Heights Winery, winery staff, wine writers, and others through the Internet by logging on to the winery’s web site at http://www.golanwines.co.il for a “virtual tasting” of this exceptional wine.
