A quick look on wine making from the grape to the bottle to warm you up on this COLD (and snowy) Jerusalem day.
Here is the details on Israwinexpo for those who will be in Israel at the end of February:
The exposition is to take place at the Israel Trade Fair and Convention Center. Sponsored by the magazine Wine, Gourmet and Alcohol, Grape Man and Wine Center and with the backing of the Ministry of Agriculture, the Export Institute and the Grape Growers’ Association the fair is scheduled for visits by those invited from abroad as well as locals in the trade and journalists only from 10:00-22:00. on 26 February. The fair will then be open to the public on 27 and 28 February during the hours of 16:00-22:00. Admission to the fair for the public is free but tasting coupons must be purchased, those at NIS 49 for ten tastings, that fee including a tasting glass.
As I just broke my good wine glass, I’m especially looking forward to the tasting glass. (Unless anyone wants to send me a glass for review… yeah, right!)
Israwinexpo, a government-sponsored Israeli wine trade show, is coming next month. It’s the second time this has been held, as the government is finally (ok, granted I’m free-market and think the government should stay out … everywhere) recognizing the importance of the wine industry in Israel’s economy. This trade show is mostly open to wine critics, press, and importers, but will also have limited hours open to the public in the evenings.
It’s going to be held in Tel Aviv at the end of February. I’m going to attend (unfortunately in the general admittance unless someone wants to help get me in the press-only limited admittance as the only English Israeli-only wine blog writing from Israel) and will have more then.
But, in the run up, Rogov has listed the wineries currently listed as participating. While some of the smaller producers are notably absent (and, in my opinion, understandably, as they would otherwise use up all their wines at this event), there are numerous great Israeli wineries, including:
Villa Wilhelma Tabor Tzion Avidan Chillag Alexander Benhaim Gv’oat Gush Etzion Dalton Odem Mountain Galil Mountain Vitkin Tulip Teperberg Sea Horse Saslove Psagot Tzoba Binyamina Tishbi Tzora Recanati Barkan Carmel Noach — my view, this is the one place to AVOID!
Ramat Ha Golan
(Golan Heights Winery)
I will bring more as it’s going and plan a major wine tour at the end of February, beginning of March, and so STAY TUNED
I do apologize that I am posting often about the same wineries – Recanati, Galil Mountain, Golan Heights, Yatir, etc. – and not paying enough attention to Pelter, Vitkin, Chateau Golan, Ella Valley, or some of the 100s of other Israeli wines, but certain wines are just so versatile.
Such as two of my favorite wineries: Galil Mountain and Recanti.
In fact, about a month ago, I was at an interesting French restaurant in Jerusalem (“Eldad vezehoo”, although I admit it didn’t seem too French) and our table ordered … not French wine … but rather Israeli. And not the Francophile Domaine du Castel (of course that’s because we got a cheaper wine!) but rather Galil Mountain – the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2006 Sauvignon Blanc). When perusing there wine rack, I saw higher end wines – such as the Galil Mountain Yiron. Nary a French wine was to be found. Of course, the more French-inspired restaurant in Nachlat Shiva (totally blanking on the name at the moment) probably has a wider selection of French wine, but the point was that Galil Mountain wine – a very value wine – is versaitile.
Want a step up from Galil Mountain? How about Recanati, as it seems like I’ve been drinking a lot of Recanati lately. From the 2003 Recanati Reserve Merlot with some pizza and watching Sideways for the first time (I know, I know, Merlot with Sideways… how ironic!) to the Recanati Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot at a recent academic colloquium that I coordinate.
And tonight … I can’t decide between a 2006 Recanti Special Edition, 2004 Gamla Sangiovese, or the Galil Mountain 2006 CS.
Few people have heard of Teperberg 1870 wine, and very little of it is available in the United States (although I did see some in Germany last year). Formerely Efrat Winery (but not located in the city of Efrat), Teperberg has been producing wine since 1870, originally from the Old City of Jerusalem and then outside the city. Of course, for much of its history, it was producing sweet, sickly Kiddush wines. On the other hand, so was Carmel and everyone’s heard of Carmel. Founded by the Tepeberg family, the winery is still in the family’s hands. Personally, Teperberg 1870 is one of my personal favorite wineries.
But today, Teperberg is a winery on the way up. Its top of the lines compete favorably in my opinion with good value wineries like Galil Mountain, Recanati and Tabor (haven’t heard of Tabor? Why is this not available in the US?). In fact, one of my favorite wines is the Teperberg Meritage, which is a Bordeaux-style blend not made in France (learn more about a Meritage in this Washington Post article), which I opened up the 2005 Teperberg 1870 Meritage over the weekend. Not a wine for aging, it was quite smooth (moreso than the 2006) and of medium complexity, although I think I prefer the 2006 vintage.
Meritage is one of the few Teperberg wines available in the United States (kosherwine.com is only selling the Meritage and Shiraz, but onlinekosherwine.com has several more!). It’s also available in the United Kingdom and throughout Europe.
These aren’t the most spectacular wines ever, but they also don’t cost an arm and a leg.
Teperberg is making wine in four series:
Teperberg Reserve
Teperberg Select
Terra – some top wine at a good price. The Cabernet Sauvignon got a 90 from Rogov, and this isn’t one of his favorite Israeli wines.
Israeli – a mevushal mix, not as good as the higher lines, this is what I saw in Germany. Not available in the US, I think this is better than the standard “simcha” wines of Carmel and Barkan and really would be a great wine served for B’nai Mitzvot and Jewish weddings and other events (when a mevushal wine is needed).
This isn’t news for anyone who has been following Israeli wine (aka the readers of this blog) but it represents a major step in recognition, and proof that the Wine Advocate article is having an impact. An Israeli winery received a positive article in a non-wine magazine. And, even though it profiles a kosher winery, it doesn’t mention the word “Kosher” once. This is the right thing.
Business Week has a profile of Golan Heights Winery (with some very nice pictures) and Galil Mountain Winery. Again, it’s not new i
nformation for those who have been following the wine but anyone concerned about Israeli wine … and especially those concerned about marketing it … must realize that most people have not been exposed to Israeli wine … even the biggies like Golan Heights Winery.
Check it out
The (beautiful!) photo gallery
According to a report in Globes, Israel’s top financial paper, Israel is now seeking to be the next Tuscany, Bordeaux, Rhone, Napa and Sonoma Valley. That is, Israel too, hopes to become a wine tourism destination.
According to Globes:
Zichron Yaacov and Binyamina are formulating a plan to create agricultural tourism with the aim of developing and marketing the area’s wine culture. The Israel Land Administration (ILA) and the Zichron Yaacov Local Council have begun construction of a 150-acre Wine Park among the vineyards and wineries on the southeastern slopes of the town. The project combines tourism and recreation with the vintners and residences that are steeped in the wine tradition of the area from its beginning.
Carmel Winery, Binyamina Wines, Tishbi Estate Winery, and a number of boutique wineries are located in the area. Nevertheless, a perusal of international tourism websites found that they mention the area in connection with many topics, of which wine is only one. The Wine Park is intended to change this.
Each business unit at the Wine Park will have a number of complementary functions of a winery with a restaurant, cafe, and bed and breakfast. The parks’ green heart will be surrounded by model vineyards. The Wine Park is not an isolated venture. The local council is also planning a site for agricultural tourism in Binyamina.
Tishbi is building a new visitors center at a cost of $1 million. The center will include a professional wine tasting center, restaurant, bakery, and genuine brandy distillery purchased in Cognac, France. The Tishbi family predicts that the new center will double the number of visitors from the current 20,000 a year.
Gamliel Kronemer, the New York Jewish Week’s wine writer, has just released his Top 10 kosher wines for 2007. While missing out on many of the great non-certified Israeli wines (Flam, Margalit, Pelter, Clos de Gat, Odem Mountain [going certified starting with the 2007 vintages] and many more), about half the list is Israeli wines. Also, with rare exception, most of those wines are available in the US so he leaves out (intentionally) some of the excellent wines not imported or barely available in America (Teperberg 1870, the many smaller boutiques, etc.).
But the list of top Israeli wines according to the NY Jewish Week: Continue reading Top 10 Kosher Wines for 2007
With President Bush gone, I can finally return to blogging (because, ya know, we spent so much time together… well, just as his motorcade passed and roads were closed).
As it seems like I’ve got readers both from Israel and the United States, I will post a few wine events going on over the next week. They sound interesting.
15 January – Dalton Celebrates 12th Anniversary
Dalton Winery, already very established in Israel with “some of the best reds in Israel” is celebrating its 12th anniversary with a series of workshops and tastings with winemaker Na’ama Mualem (I wonder if she’s Israel’s only female winemaker?), who will discuss the future of Dalton. The first of the workshops will take place at the Francesca Restaurant in Rishon leTzion at 20:00 (8:00PM). The wines to be served to accompany the meal are:
Dalton, Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, 2006 Dalton, Barbera, 2006 Dalton, Syrah Reserve, 2005
Dalton Alma, 2005
The cost for the event, including dinner, will be NIS 175 per person. For further information or to make reservations phone 03 6414151 (Extension 2)
17 January – Galil Mountain tasting in New York
The Kosher Wine Society and Gotham Wine in New York will be hosting a tasting of Galil Mountain Wines, guided by winemaker Micha Vaadia. Among the wines include the not-yet-released Avivim, which is a new blend from Galil Mountain. If you’re in NY, it’s worth going just to check out the Avivim but Galil Mountain is also making some of Israel’s best wines at great prices. It is scheduled for 17 January at 7:30PM. Costs $40 for members and $50 for non-members. For more information: http://www.kosherwinesociety.com/?seq=118&event=23721&command=viewevent
This doesn’t relate directly to Israeli wine (except insofar as Richard and others are trying to bring Israeli wines direct to American consumers, skipping wholesalers and retailers) but since it talks about Maryland, where I’m from, and relates to why I can’t get good wine shipped to me when I visit the US or to have others bring me, I’m pointing it out. I’m the blogger – I can veer off topic if I choose.
Examiner.com (don’t know what it is) published an op/ed by the Cato Institute’s director of government affairs on the ridiculousness of the three-tier system here in an article Legacy of Prohibition Lives on in Maryland. Three key paragraphs, specifically which relate to those who might want to find Israeli – or other – wine that they can’t get at their local wine store:
Yet the vestiges of Prohibition live on in our state and country, most notably in the laws that govern the sale and distribution of alcoholic beverages. In addition to repealing Prohibition, the 21st Amendment turned regulation of alcoholic beverages over to state government.
Most states, including Maryland, adopted some form of the so-called “three-tier” distribution system. Under this system, producers cannot sell their wares directly to consumers. In fact, they cannot even sell directly to grocery stores, restaurants or other retailers. Instead, they are required by state law to sell their products to wholesalers, who in turn sell to retailers, who then sell to consumers. Of course, each step in the process leads to an additional markup so in the end, consumers spend a lot more for the beer, wine or spirits than they should.
High additional costs are only part of the problem. Because consumers cannot purchase alcohol directly from producers, it can prove impossible to track down rare bottles of wine, beer or spirits. The complex arrangements among manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers have limited the availability of rare and boutique wines, beer and spirits — especially products made by small brewers, distillers and vintners, which often lack the volume and resources necessary to market their products to distributors. It has placed consumer options fully in the hands of wholesalers and retailers.
Incidentally, this has also been making the rounds of the wine blogosphere lately because, apparently, Wine.com – which has a decent selection of Israeli wines, I should add — has been contacting legal authorities and snitching on its competitors for shipping to Washington State, when the competitor lacks the permission to ship to WA.
If you want to say “No” to the Three-tier system check out Wine Without Borders blog or the “Free the Grapes” lobby (sponsored by the wine industry) to try to break down the system.
Daniel Rogov has posted (a few days ago, sorry!) his list of the best Israeli wines for 2007. These aren’t necessarily the best Israeli wines ever, he points out, but rather the best wines that he has tasted in 2007. The kosher wines are marked with a “K” for those who are interested.
The following list, of the very best Israeli wines that I tasted during 2007, includes primarily wines that were released during the past twelve months. It also includes, however, several wines that were tasted in advance and are scheduled for release within the next month or two. Considering that this is a list of “the best”, the cut-off for entry was that the wines earn a minimum of 90 points. The list does not include barrel or long-range advance tastings and within each score category, wines are arranged alphabetical order by the names of the wineries.
Wines that Earned 95 Points 1. Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, Yarden, 2003: Dark ruby towards purple, full-bodied, with caressing tannins and a moderate oak influence. Opens with currants and minerals, goes to meaty, earthy and herbal aromas and flavors, and then to spices and a long and elegant fruity finish. Firmly structured with excellent grip and complexity. Best 2010-2020. Score 95. KWines That Earned 94 Points
2. Castel, Grand Vin, 2004: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc coming together as a remarkably satisfying whole. Dark garnet towards inky black , full-bodied, with deep and still firm tannins integrating nicely with smoky and spicy wood and fruits. Opens with blackberries and chocolate, those yielding to currants and raspberries and finally to an array of chocolate, licorice and tobacco that play on the palate. Long, generous and elegant. Approachable now but best 2008-2012, perhaps longer. One of Castel’s very best. Score 94. K
3. Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve, 2005: Almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, this wine is both concentrated and elegant. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc, opening with spicy, mocha-tinged black currants, those yielding to blackberries, herbs and light oak. Hints of light sea salt and leather on the super-long finish make the wine intriguing. Perhaps the best yet from the winery. Best 2009–2015. Score 94.
4. Clos de Gat, Scyra, Syrah, Israel, 2004: A chameleon in that the flavors and aromas in this firm, dense wine seem to shift and change every few moments. Starts off with cherries and currants, goes to grapey and pepper notes, then on to show sage and anise, and then on to freshly ground Arabica coffee. And then, as if that wasn’t enough, on the superbly long and tannic finish, back to cherries and currants. Well focused and intense Mediterranean Syrah. Approachable now but best 2008-2012, perhaps longer. Score 94.
5. Margalit, Special Reserve, 2005: Showing even better than at barrel tastings. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% of Margalit’s magical Petite Sirah. Deep garnet towards inky black, remarkably concentrated and intense and still firmly tannic at this stage but with fine balance and structure, this simply needs time. As the wine develops in the bottle look for a glorious array of currant, blackberry and plums on the first attack, those melding into hints of coffee, dusky spices and smoky notes and finally on the super-long finish the tannins residing to let the fruits and a hint of espresso coffee rise and float to the surface. Perhaps destined to be Margalit’s longest-lived wine. Best 2009-2022, perhaps longer. Score 94.
Continue reading The Best Wines of Israel: 2007
