February | 2009 | HaKerem: Israeli Wine

Israel is a world leader in high tech. Your computer’s firewall and the firewall that protects your home and corporate network was invented by an amazing Israeli company named CheckPoint. Your computer’s CPU is most likely an Intel chip that was significantly developed by Intel’s R&D centers in Israel. Your USB disk was invented in Israel.  Only America has more start-ups listed on the NASDAQ stock exchange. Israel is known as the Silicon Wadi.

Yet, despite Israel’s high tech prowess, Israeli web development has led much to be desired. That’s particularly the case in the wine web. And, while Israelis have eagerly embraced social media, Israeli winery’s have been slow to adapt. I started the “Israeli wine” fan page on Facebook (with over 400 members now, and more after you join, I hope). A fan of Psagot winery started their Facebook page, with only 30-something fans for a winery that has its fervent cheerleaders. No Israeli winery is on Twitter, writing in English or Hebrew. The only Israeli wine twitters I’m aware of is myself (@hakerem) and, in America, Richard Shaffer of Israeli Wine Direct (@israeliwine), even if he did get the username that I wanted! I sent a presentation to the Israel Export Institute about social media and the global wine web, but I don’t think much came of it.

However, I was pleased to see that one Israeli winery is making an effort. Dalton Winery has just launched a revamped English website, which will include both an English and Hebrew blog.

Dalton Winery’s website will include winemaker Naama Mualem blogging in Hebrew and proprieter Alex Haruni blogging in English and translating some of Naama’s posts. They haven’t written much yet, and a post about a mention on Channel 2 sadly lacked live video coverage, but it’s the widest embrace of social media of any Israeli winery website I know of.

כל הכבוד!

The connection between Israeli wine and social media and other marketing tools to promote Israeli wine to an international audience is a deep and abiding passion of mine, so I’m thrilled to see this and I really hope that they keep it up.

Incidentally, for wineries who want to enhance their Internet presence properly, there are some great resources (besides tapping into local talent):

Here is a Chinese news show about an Israeli food fair featuring the two best things about Israel: food and technology

Israeli wine is on the rise according to Food and Beverage Magazine.

People are starting to get it! Food & Beverage Magazine, an important trade magazine for the food, beverage, and hospitality industries just published an excellent article about Israeli wine. According to Jacques Capsouto, owner and wine director of New York City’s Capsouto Frères, one of New York City’s premiere French restaurants, “I like to drink the quality wines, instead of quantity wine. Israel is about quality.”

(If you have a problem viewing the article, the original article is available at http://www.fb101.com/ISRAELI_WINE_ON_THE_RISE.html)

ISRAEL WINE 42-45

This video about Tishbi Winery is in Hebrew, with English subtitles. Tishbi’s long history making grapes and wine in Israel reflect Israel’s long history as a wine producing nation.

(This information first appeared at Israeli Wines-Pride of Israel wines-israel.co.il)

VINEYARDS

Israel is usually regarded as being part of the Middle East. It may be more accurately considered as being situated in the Eastern Mediterranean, a region also referred to as the Near East or ‘The Levant.’

Climate: Mainly Mediterranean. Long , hot dry summers; short wet winters; snow on higher ground. Also semi arid & desert conditions in the Negev.

Soils: Volcanic in north ; sandy red soils on coast & chalk & limestone on hills.

Hectares: 4,300 hectares (10,621 acres; 43, 000 dunams).

Harvest (metric tons):

2008: 43,987 2007: 42,156 2006: 45,175 2005: 45,483 2004: 53,468; 2003: 45,242; 2002: 43,077; 2001: 44,653 (1995: 31,668).

Vintage: August to end of October – (often begins late July & occasionally ends early November); Machine & hand harvested.

GRAPE VARIETIES

Israel’s traditional volume varieties, Carignan & Colombard, apart from some quality old vine Carignans, are usually only used in inexpensive blends. They are gradually being replaced by international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay & Sauvignon Blanc. Shiraz is proving both popular & suitable for Israel’s climate. Bordeaux varieties have been most successful to date, yet Mediterranean varieties may be more suitable in the longer term.

Continue reading Israeli Wine Statistics (2009)

Daniel Rogov’s tasting notes follow for the Israeli Tzora winery:

Set on Kibbutz Tzora at the foothills of the Jerusalem Mountains and overlooking the Soreq Valley, this formerly kibbutz-owned winery released its first 1,500 bottles from the 1993 vintage. Production in 2004 was about 60,000 bottles, in 2005 it was reduced to about 30,000 bottles, but in 2006 and 2007 rose again, the winery now producing about 80,000 bottles annually.

The winery was founded as a one-man enterprise by Ronnie James, a visionary viticulturist who was dedicated to the influence of terroir on his wines. James, who earned a high level of respect throughout the local wine industry, passed away in 2008, but not before bringing aboard winemaker Eran Pick who had experience in California, Bordeaux and Australia. Pick has maintained the winery’s devotion to terroir and is currently releasing five wines, three of those named after the single vineyards from which the grapes were harvested (Givat Hachalukim, Shoresh and Neve Ilan), one a Judean Hills blend made from two vineyards and Misty Hills a flagship wine released only from selected vintages

Recent private investment has added state-of-the-art equipment to the winery, and together with the kibbutz—which remains a part-owner—the winery has full control over its own vineyards, those yielding Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Mourvedre, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Gewurztraminer . The Tzora wines have been kosher since the 2002 vintage. Construction of a new winery in the Shoresh vineyards is currently in the planning stage.

2008
Tzora Vineyards, Blanc, Neve Ilan, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Made entirely frm Chardonnay grapes, developing in French oak, 40% of which are new, already drinking quite nicely, showing medium-bodied, with fine acidity and minerality setting off tropical and summer fruits, those on a lightly spicy background. Fresh and lively with just enough complexity to grab our attention. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 88-90. K. (Tasted 27 Jan 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Givat Hachalukim, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color, deeply aromatic, full-bodied and showing tannins that lurk quietly before making themselves felt in fine balance with the influence of the wood. Opens to show floral and veggie notes, those complimenting and not at all hiding the blackcurrant, purple plum and blackberry fruits. Opens nicely on the palate. A wine with presence. Best 2011-2015. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 27 Jan 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Neve Ilan, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, dark garnet towards royal purple in color, opening soft, round and almost creamy with fine blackcurrant and wild berry notes, and then going on to show hints of hot pepper, freshly cured tobacco and Mediterranean herbs. A long near-sweet finish. Best 2011-2015, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 27 Jan 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shoresh, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Perhaps to be blended with a small amount of Syrah, at this stage full-bodied and concentrated but at the same time elegant and round. A spicy red, medium- to full-bodied, with gripping tannins in fine balance with spicy wood and fruits.On the nose and palate generous black fruits and notes of Oriental spices, those backed up by a comfortable hint of dark chocolate. As this one develops look as well for a note of mint that will creep in softly. Drink from release-2015. Tentative Score 90-92 K (Tasted 27 Jan 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Syrah, Meubanim, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Probably destined for the Misty Hill wine of 2008, a deep, dark purple, with silky smooth tannins integrating nicely and showing an appealing array of aromas and flavors, those including blackberries, wild strawberries, leather and light meatyt notes, those on a lightly spiced oaky background. With fine balance and structure shows well for the future. Best 2011-2016. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 27 Jan 2009)

2007

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Judean Hills, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Not a blend as has come to be expected but this year made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and spicy wood notes in fine balance with currant and wild berry fruits, those supported nicely by notes of spices, tobacco (Tasted 27 Jan 2009)and freshly turned soil. Opens nicely and lingers comfortably. Best 2010-2013. Score 89. K

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Givat Hachalukim, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Living up to barrel tasting notes. Dark garnet in color, generously aromatic and opening to reveal a medium to full-bodied red with soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood and fruits. On the nose and palate opening with raspberries, those going to blackberries, currants and hints of orange peel. Firm but yielding, generous and long. Drink from release–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 27 Jan 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shoresh, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Blended with 15% Syrah, opens with a deep nose of plums and freshly turned earth. Goes on to show spicy oak and gently caressing tannins in fine balance with peppery blackcurrants and blackberries, and, on the long finish, with tannins rising comfortably an appealing note of saddle leather. Best 2010-2015. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Re-tasted 27 Jan 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Syrah, 2007 (Barrel Tasting: A candidate for the Misty Hills release. Deep royal purple in color, full-bodied, with still firm tannins and generous spicy oak just starting to settle down now to match plum, black cherry and spring flowers, those on a background of dark cocoa. Calls to mind the Syrah releases of Yves Cuilleron and believe me, that is a compliment. Needs time for its elements to come together. Best 2010-2015. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 27 Jan 2009)
2006

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Neve Ilan, 2006: Medium to full-bodied, deep garnet toward royal purple, with tannins integrated with notes of spicy oak and fruits. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot opening with raspberries and red currants, those yielding to red plums, spices and earthy minerals. Soft, round and generous. Drink now-2012. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 27 Jan 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shoresh, 2006: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its 18 months in oak with a sweet cedar nose. Soft tannins integrating nicely with the oak and opens to show a tempting array of currants, wild berries and purple plums, those matched by notes of minerality and cocoa. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 27 Jan 2009)

Tzora Vineyards, Misty Hills, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, those aged for 18 months in barriques. Deep and youthful royal purple in color, full-bodied, concentrated and intense, showing generous mouth-coating tannins and a judicious hand with the oak, all in fine balance with fruits. On first attack strawberries and red currants, those going to black fruits on a background of earthy minerals and Oriental spices. As this one continues to develop look as well for notes of saddle leather and tobacco. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2015. Score 92. K (Tasted 27 Jan 2009)

I’ve tasted Avidan Winery’s selections several times at wine tastings in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv and always found their non-kosher Israeli wines quite enjoyable. But, really, who cares what I think? Well, me. Avidan Winery is a perfect example of a winery making uniquely Mediterranean wine! But, more of you care what Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov thinks, so his thoughts on Avidan Winery’s latest releases follow:

Founded in 2000 by Shlomo and Tsina Avidan, this boutique winery is located on Kibbutz Eyal in the Sharon region and relies on Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre, Carignan, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah and Merlot grapes selected from various vineyards in the Judean Hills. The winery has recently underone a major expansion is currently producing about 30,000 bottles annually. Wines are released in several series—the age-worthy Premium and Reserve wines, the varietal Avidan wines, the Fringe wines, the wines in their Blend de Noir series and the Petite Soleil, those meant for earlier consumption.

Avidan, Petit Rose, 2008 (Advance Tasting): A true potpourri, this deep cherry-red wine rose is a blend of Cabernet Sauvigjnon, Merlot, Shiraz, Grenache, Carignan and Pinot Noir. Although it seems that just about everything “left over” was used here the result is a success, the medium-bodied wine showing a fruity nose and appealing raspberry, cassis and cranberry fruits. Think of this not so much as a true rose as a light and refreshing red. Whatever, a fun and easy-to-drink wine. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87.

Avidan, Blend de Noirs, Tagadom (Red Label), 2007 (Advance Tasting): Oak aged for 12 months, this medium-bodied blend of Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz (45%, 35% and 20% respectively), shows super-dark garnet in color. Opens with a fresh, black fruit nose, goes on in the glass to reveal currants and raspberries, those supported by hints of mint, licorice and espresso coffee. Soft and gently mouth-coating tannins rise comfortably on the finish. Drink now-2012. Score 88.

Continue reading Avidan Winery: Tasting Notes

Around the world, Twitter users are gathering together this weekend to support water in Africa. In a fundraising effort, proceeds from the event – taking place at numerous locations around the world – will go to support charity:water.

One of these events to support water in Africa will be taking place in Jerusalem. The Jerusalem Twestival 2009 (12 February 2009, Jerusalem Venture Partner Media Labs – corner of Derech Hevron and Rehov David Remez)will also feature wine from Israel’s boutique Soreq winery.

One of the most established boutique wineries in Israel, the Soreq Winery is nestled in the ancient wine country between the Ayalon and Soreq valleys terraced in the western Judean Hills on Moshav Tel Shachar. Soreq wines come from their Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot vineyards as well as a few other specialty vineyards which together produce about 5000 bottles of wine a year.

This family-run business also teaches the art of wine-making to dozens of students at their school, established with the winery in 1994. Hobbyist learn side-by-side with professionals and over forty alumni have started their own commercial wineries.

Wines by the glass and by the bottle will be available for purchase at the Jerusalem Twestival. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to Charity:Water.

Incidentally, you can follow HaKerem on Twitter at @hakerem

Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov has been making his annual round of tastings as of late and he recently visited Saslove Winery. Saslove, founded by Canadian immigrant Barry Saslove, is one of those great Israeli boutique wineries that are a secret to those outside of Israel.

Here is the original thread and the following comes straight from Rogov:

Considering that Saslove founded his eponymous winery in 1998, he is indeed one of the “old-timers” on the Israeli boutique scene. I recall not only Barry’s first endeavors but his remarkable enthusiasm. It is a delight to report that after more than a decade he has lost not one iota of that enthusiasm. Better yet, Saslove wines continue to move in the direction of elegance.

Located on Kibbutz Eyal in the Sharon region and with a new facility for receiving and fermenting grapes in the Upper Galilee, Saslove has his own vineyards in that area currently planted with Cabernet Sauvigon, Merlot, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc grapes already on line with Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Gewurztraminer in the pipeline. Production is currently about 80,000 bottles annually.

For several years, under the label “K by Saslove” the winery released kosher wines. That production was halted with the 2005 vintage but the winery is now using the facilities of a service winery to produce kosher wines under the Sagol label. Production of the kosher wine was of 2,000 bottles in 2007 and 4,000 bottles in 2008. Planned releases from the 2009 vintage are 10,000 bottles.

Note that some of the wines were tasted in barrels and (particularly the 2007) some were tasted in components, so the final blends may vary.

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adom, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components but already showing dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with generous near-sweet tannins and ripe black cherry, purple plum and currant fruit that promise to be pure and well focused. On the background, light toasty oak and finishing with notes of mocha and spices. Best from 2010-2016. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Saslove, Merlot, Adom, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with cressing tannins, a rich, soft and round wine, showing blackberry, espresso coffee and black olive notes all on a lightly spicy background. On the long finish a surprising but appealing note of citrus peel. Tasted from components. Best from 2010. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adom, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, rich, smooth and complex, with firm tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood and opening to reveal currant and berry fruits, those complemented by notes of sage and minerals and, on the long finish light sweet cedar and blackberries. Tasted from components but already showing simultaneously concentrated and elegant. Best 2010-2015. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Saslove, Merlot, Adom 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied and generously tannic but lean and crisp on the palate, opening to show an enchanting array of raspberry, blackberry, cranberry, tobacco and sage notes, those supported by generous but not overpowering spicy wood. On the long finish notes of espresso coffee and a hint of saddle leather. Best from release – 2013. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Saslove, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A full-bodied, deep royal purple blend of 2/3 Cabernet and 1/3 Shiraz in which both varieties make themselves felt nicely. Developed in barriques for 22 months, its elements already coming together nicely and showing opulence. On the nose and palate a tempting array of currants, plum, blueberries and black pepper, those on a light tarry background. Delicious now but with its best still in front of it. Drink from release but best 2011-2015. One of Saslove’s very best. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserved, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Showing full-bodied, with generous oak and still firm tannins integrating nicely and showing fine balance with fruits and acidity. Promises to soften with time but destined to be deep, dark and concentrated while simultaneously rich and elegant. On the nose and palate dried and fresh currants, blackberries and raspberries, those in sharp focus and supported by notes of spices and Mediterranean herbs. Best from 2010-2015. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Saslove, Merlot, Aviv, 2007: Made as are all of the wines in the Aviv series in stainless steel vats with oak chips. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and appealing notes of spicy and vanilla-rich oak, opening to show wild berry, currant and purple plums, those highlighted by light notes of sage and chocolate. Finishes round and smooth and moderately-long with fruits rising. Drink now-2011. NIS 72. Score 88. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Aviv, 2007: My recent tasting note holds firmly. Almost blue-black in color, medium to full-bodied with firm tannins and smoky wood integrating nicely now and showing fine balance to highlight blackberry, purple plum and currant fruits, those complemented by hints of spices, cloves and espresso coffee. Drink now–2010. NIS 72. Score 88. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Saslove, Marriage, Aviv, 2007: A medium-bodied, soft and round blend of 25% Merlot, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Shiraz opening to show appealing red currant, raspberry and blueberry notes, those supported by notes of spices and, as traditional to this wine, red licorice. Drink now-2010. NIS 72. Score 88. Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

(For the thread, go to Daniel Rogov’s wine forum)

Daniel Rogov recently visited the Israeli boutique winery of Vitkin. Here are his thoughts and tasting notes for the recent and soon-to-be releases of this Israeli winery.

Established by Doron and Sharona Belogolovsky on Moshav Kfar Vitkin on the central Coastal Plain, this winery released its first wines from the 2002 vintage. Bordeaux-trained winemaker Assaf Paz relies on Carignan, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Viognier, French Colombard, Johannisberg Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Muscat grapes from vintners in the Jerusalem hills as well as several other parts of the country. The winery, specializing in creative blends and producing several varietal wines, is currently producing about 35,000 bottles annually. The Vitkin series is of age-worthy wines, and the Israeli Journey wines are meant for relatively early drinking.

Vitkin, White Journey, 2008: A blend of 55% Viognier, 35% French Colombard and 10% Gewurztraminer, the Viognier aged in new French oak, the others sur lie in stainless steel tanks. Flowery on both the nose and palate, surprisingly happily by its crisp and refreshing acidity, and opening to reveal generous ripe summer fruits. Lively and refreshing. Drink now. Score 88. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, White Journey, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: blend of 60% Viognier, 30% old vine French Colombard and 10% Gewurztraminer, aged on its lees partly in stainless steel and partly in large oak casks. Light to medium-bodied, freshly aromatic and showing red grapefruit, tropical fruit and white peaches on a lightly spicy background. Dry but with a very pleasant hint of sweetness. Finishes fresh and lively. Drink now. Score 88. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Combining the charms of Rhine and Alsace Riesling, light gold in color, medium-bodied, with fine balance between fruits and acidity. Opens on the nose to show white peach, grapefruit and white mulberries, those on a lightly spicy background. Give this one a bit of time and it may show a light petrol note. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2007: Light golden with a green tint, showing a delicate floral nose, that hinting of petrol and then opening to aromas and flavors of lemon and lime, green apples and a tantalizing hint of white pepper. A delicate and elegant wine. Drink now–2011.NIS 85. Score 89. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2006: Showing even better than at earlier tastings. Light gold in color, opens with a floral nose and goes on to reveal apricot, grapefruit, bitter orange peel and notes of green apples. Since release has come to show traditional Riesling traits – spicy and long, with the flowers of Alsace and the petrol note of the Rhine. Drink now–2012. Score 90. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Pink Journey, 2008: Light cherry red, a rose primarily of Carignan and Syrah with small amounts of Tempranillo and Cabernet Franc blended in. Crisply dry and generously fruity, shows a low nose but opens to appealing aromas and flavors of strawberries, raspberries and black cherries, those with floral and spicy overtones. Medium-bodied, crisply dry and refreshing, strong enough to stand up to chicken and veal dishes. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 65. Score 88. (Tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Pinot Noir, 2007: Made from low yield vines and harvested early, oaked for 10 months, with silky tannins with just enough of a grip to catch our attention. Dark in color for a Pinot but showing fine varietal traits, opening with black cherry, red plums and raspberries, those supported nicely by notes of spices, cedar wood and minerals. Supple, fresh and rewarding. Showing even better than at barrel tastings. Drink now-2012. Score 90. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Red Journey, 2007: Medium to full-bodied with soft tannins and gentle wood influences, a round and generous, deep garnet blend of Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Opens with a light floral note, goes on to red plums, currants and berries on a light peppery and earthy-mineral background, all leading to a tempting near-sweet finish.Drink now–2011. NIS 69. Score 87. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Carignan, 2006: Showing even better than at earlier tastings. Made entirely from Carignan grapes and developed in new 360 liter French oak casks for 15 months. Intensely dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with deep, firm tannins just starting to settle in, deep garnet in color and showing fine extraction. On first attack, shows primarily spicy black fruits, those yielding to “let loose’ notes of mint and freshly turned earth. Simuiltaneously concentrated and intense while warm and generous with fruits and tannins rising on the long finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2020–2013. NIS 95. Score 91. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Ripe and polished, a blend of 86% Cabernet Franc and 14% Petit Verdot. Aged in new French oak for 15 months and showing gentle near-sweet cedar notes along with soft tannins that are integrating nicely. On the nose and palate currants and black cherries, those parting to reveal notes of toasted white bread, figs and tobacco. On the long and mouth-filling finish floral and mocha hints. Drink now–2013. NIS 115. Score 91. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2005: Made from old-vine grapes and oak-aged for 16 months. Full-bodied, impenetrably dark purple-black, with deep spicy overlays and firm tannins all coming together beautifully. On the nose and palate blackberry and blueberries, those matched nicely by notes of white pepper, peppermint, chocolate and cedar wood, and on the long finish enchanting hints of raspberry jam. Drink now–2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2006: Showing much as at barrel and advance tastings. Reflecting its youth with a dark royal-purple color, medium to full-bodied, with fine extraction and with lively notes of spices, white pepper, tobacco and cedarwood supporting generous blackberry and huckleberry fruits. Chewy tannins rise on the finish along with a hint of grilled beef. Best 2010–2014. Score 90. (Re-tasted 29 Jan 2009)

(For Daniel Rogov’s original posting, go here)

Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov is making his annual rounds and recently visited the kosher winery, Ella Valley Vineyards. I’ve previously written about the excellent wines from this Jerusalem-area vineyard and my previous visits.

Note that the 2008 tastings were made from components, and so when it is released, check back for updated tasting notes as it can change between the component tasting and the final blend. Many of the 2007 tastings were barrel tasted, but will be released soon.

2008

Ella Valley Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Blended with a small quantity of Semillon, the wine oak aged in small part, showing light gold in color with lively and crisp acidity. Opens with notes of kiwis, guava and grapefruit, those supported nicely by light hints of freshly cut grass, all with just enough complexity to grab our attention. Best from release-2010. Score 88. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Unoaked Chardonnay, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Light and glistening golden straw in color, developed on its fine lees in stainless steel tanks and with no racking, a medium-bodied white. Generous lemon curd, lime and green apple notes. Crisp and tangy enough to make you smile with pleasure. Drink from release. Score 87. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): The color of golden straw after a light rain, showing medium-bodied, vibrant and full of life, with light smoky oak notes of ripe pears and lime that linger nicely on an expressive finish. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Pinot Noir, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark cherry red, medium- to full-bodied with fine tannins and spices. A well focused wine, elegant and stylish showing wild berry, black cherry and cassis fruits, with a tantalizing bitter-herbal finish that rises on the long, generously fruity finish. Drink from release-2014. Tentative Score 90-92. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from several components showing medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle wood offset comfortably by fresh acidity. Opens to reveal red cherry, blackberry, tobacco and mineral notes, the fruits and a light nutty flavor rise on the long finish. Drink from release-2013, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely. Opens with a bare and tantalizing hint of freshly cut Mediterranean herbs and then goes on to generous cherry and currant fruits. Supple and generous. Drink from release-2013. Tentative Score 90-92. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet in color, full-bodied with still gripping tannins but already showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. Rich and round, a fruity red with an abundance of blackberry, raspberry and currant notes, those showing an appealing floral note. From mid-palate on to the long finish hints of citrus peel and milk chocolate. Drink from release-2014. Tentative Score 90-92. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Syrah, 2008 (Barrel Tastings): Tasted from several components, those from the Nes Harim and Nativ HaLamed Hey vineyards. Dense and muscular, with firm tannins enclosing a rich core of wild berries, blackberries and sweet cedar wood notes. Opens in the glass to reveal an appealing black cherry note that lingers nicely. Needs time to show its elegance. Best 2010-2014, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. K

2007

Ella Valley Vineyards, Ever Red, 2007 (Advance Tasting): A medium-bodied blend, gently tannic red, this year of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Developed for 14 months in barriques, shows appealing berry, currant and black cherry fruits, those on a background of light and just spicy enough oak. Not complex but comfortable drinking and at its best with small cuts of meat. Drink from release. Score 87. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Showing much as at barrel tastings. Blended with 5% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied with softly caressing tannins. Opens with a distinct veggie Cabernet Franc note, that yielding comfortably to cherry, blackberry, licorice and citrus peel on the long and generous finish. Drink from release-2013. Score 90. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with firm and gripping tannins that soften in the glass to show a generous array of berry, red currant and cherry fruits, those supported nicely by figs, light cedar wood notes and hints of chocolate, all leading to a near-chewy but quietly elegant finish. Blended with 14% Merlot. Drink from release-2013. Score 89. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Blended with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, opens with a hint of dusty wood and near-sweet tannins. A full-bodied and firm Merlot showing round and well balanced, the tannins complemented nicely by light spicy oak. On the nose and palate generous blackberry, currant,, wild berry and exotic spices complemented nicely by notes of minerals and light toasty oak. Drink from release-2013. Score 90. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Syrah, 2007 (Advance Tasting): My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Dark royal-purple, full-bodied with soft, gently gripping tannins and a generous mouthful of red plum, wild berry and boysenberry fruits, those complemented nicely by generous hints of peppery, spicy notes. Savory, intense and concentrated, but harmonious and elegant with a long spicy finish. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Petite Sirah, 2007 (Advance Tasting): The winery’s first release of a Petite Sirah varietal wine and quite a success. Made from grapes from 10 year old vines, intensely dark royal purple in color, showing generous tannins and fine fruit concentration. On the nose and palate blackberries, raspberries and loganberry fruits, those matched nicely not notes of mint and tobacco. Firm and chewy with a long, near muscular finish. Drink now-2012. Score 90. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vineyards Choice, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Rich and ripe, full-bodied with near-sweet tannins and a judicious hand with spicy oak. Blended with 10% Merlot and 5% Petite Sirah, opens with a nose of freshly turned damp earth and plums, those yielding in the glass to aromas and flavors of ripe currants, blueberries, dark cherries and roasted Mediterranean herbs. Long and generous. Best from 2010-2015. Score 91. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Syrah, Vineyards Choice, 2007 (Advance Tasting): The first Syrah released in the winery’s flagship series. Notably dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with fine balance between still gripping tannins and wood and just waiting patiently for all of its elements to come together. On first attack currants, wild berries and an appealing loamy note, those opening to reveal hints of bay leaves, juniper berries and mint, all leading to a long and intense finish. Needs time. Best 2010-2016, perhaps longer. Score 92.

From here on to two mini-verticals, one of Chardonnay and one of Cabernet Franc.

Chardonnay

Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2007: Developed partly in barriques, partly in stainless steel for 11 months, a medium-bodied, crisply freshly and aromatic wine. Freshly dampened golden-straw in color, showing a gentle hand with the wood, with the nose and palate opening with hints of honey, flaky pastry and minerals, and goes on to show yellow plum and citrus blossoms. Well structured, long and elegant. As the wine develops in bottles look for a gentle honeyed and creamy hint that will creep in. Drink now-2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 27 Jan 2009)

Ella Valley Vineyards, Unoaked Chardonnay, 2007: Light gold in color, medium-bodied, with crisp acidity to support appealing tropical and citrus fruits, those on a background of light, near-flinty minerals and finishing with a hint of white pepper. Calls to mind Petit Chablis. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2006: My most recent tasting note holds firmly. Medium to full-bodied, light golden in color and with flavors and aromas that play on the palate, shifting from grapefruit and nectarines to pineapples and lemon peel and finally to orange curd, all on a crisp mineral-rich background. Vibrant and lively with a long, lightly oaky and lemon blossom finish. Drinking beautifully. Drink now. Score 91. K

Ellla Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, Vineyards Choice, 2005: Developed in oak for 11 months and now showing the complexity and richness it promised earlier on. Light gold in color, with an array of pineapple, citrus and ripe pear fruits, those on a near-creamy background on which generous hints of minerals. Long and elegant. Drink now-2011. Score 92. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2005: Medium- to full-bodied, as fruit forward and aromatic now as in its youth but its green apple, pear and summer fruits and still showing minerals and yeasty white bread but now starting to show a note of caramel. Drinking nicely but not for much further cellaring. Drink up. Score 89. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2003: When I last tasted this wine (May 2007) I suggested drinking up for even though the wine was still drinking nicely it seemed to be showing signs of “splitting at its seams”. Whether I was wrong or whether the wine is now simply singing its swan song is not known but the wine was certainly a positive surprise at this tasting, drinking fresh and lively, showing generous apple, fig and nutty flavors and aromas, those matched nicely by light notes of yeasty white bread and toasty oak. Lovely but don’t gamble and if you have any left on hand, drink up. Score 90. K
Cabernet Franc

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Blended with 3% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, dark, dark-garnet in color, medium to full-bodied, deeply aromatic and showing a generous array of blackberry, black cherry and currant notes. Long, round, rich and mouth-filling. Drink now–2012. Score 92. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2005: Blended with 12% of Merlot, oak-aged for 15 months, this dark garnet, medium to full-bodied wine shows appealing vegetal aromas on first attack, those parting to reveal gently spicy cedarwood, raspberries, blackberries, red currants and generous hints of herbaceousness and white chocolate that come in on the long, well-balanced finish. Drink now–2011. Score 91. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2004: The last time I tasted this wine it was in a dumb period. That has now passed and the wine is showing very nicely indeed. Intensely dark royal purple, opens with a somewhat funky and loamy nose but that passes quickly and reveals a medium- to full-bodied wine, on the showing appealing red fruits, those supported nicely by notes of vanilla and cinnamon. From mid-palate on notes of cigar box and traditional Cabernet Franc veggie notes. Long and generous. Drink now-2011. Score 91. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2003: My last tasting note holds firmly. Blended with 15% of Cabernet Sauvignon, this almost impenetrably dark garnet, oak-aged, full-bodied red shows firm tannins and generous wood influence, those balanced nicely by a generous array of black fruits, coffee, white chocolate and tobacco, all leading to a long leathery finish. Drink now. Score 91. K

Yes, it’s the same trite, ‘Israeli wine is kosher but that doesn’t mean it’s bad’ storyline, but the real point is that this is getting out even to the blue collar. The Scranton Times Tribune — from Vice President Joe Biden’s hometown, which, if you followed the American elections is totally blue collar — has a story about the Golan Heights Winery. I wonder if Joe Biden knows about Israeli wines.

Continue reading Joe Biden’s hometown discovers Yarden wine