Recanati Winery in Emeq Hefer (in the Industrial Park off Rt. 4)
Plenty of food (dairy) and a wide selection of wine for 40 NIS at the winery.
Friday June 1st 10am to 3pm.
White Red Nights Festival 2012
June 4th-7th, 2012
This is an international festival, focusing on wine, music and cuisine.
The festival is produced by the leading production and event management company, “Arnon Paz”, in cooperation with “Avi Ben” wine stores and “Shahar Wine Stores”, which has produced the wine festival at The Israel Museum in Jerusalem for the past several years.
The two principal forces have joined together to produce a wine festival, that will be held on June 4th to 7th at the Eretz Israel Museum in Tel-Aviv.
The Eretz Israel Museum in Tel-Aviv complex will be divided into seven different compounds according to world regions:
Italy compound; Spain compound; Israel compound; Chile-Argentine compound; France compound; New World compound that includes the USA, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand; and the Sweet Nights compound.
Each compound will offer a huge variety of wines, food stands and artistic attractions.
The complex will offer a comprehensive cultural experience of culinary, wine and music.
Wineries slated to appear: Dalton Winery, Pelter Winery, Golan Heights Winer
y, Luria Winery, Tulip Winery, Amphora Winery, Arza Winery, Tabor Winery, Kadesh Barnea Winery, Tzuba Winery, Mony Winery, Ella Valley Winery, Tanya Winery, Shilo Winery and many other Israeli wineries; local cider brewery – Besters, Frescobaldi Winery, Sartori Winery, Sito, Antinori Winery, Torres Winery, Codorniu Winery, Marqués de Cáceres Winery, Chapoutier Winery, Drouhin Winery, Trapiche Winery, Santa Carolina Winery, Undurraga Winery, Bianchi Winery (Vino Latino), Concha y Toro Winery, Malbec wine stand, Astrolabe Winery, Wolf Blass – Australia, Sito – New Zealand, Nederburg Winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery, Glen Ellen Winery, Fisheye Winery, Allegrini Winery, Prunotto Winery, Pfaffenheim Winery, Faiveley Winery, Rothschild Winery, and many other wineries, including wine import companies, such as The Kerem Company, The Scottish Company, Enoteca, Mersch, Sito, Vino Latino and many more.
Also, it will be possible to enjoy the many food stands in accordance with the various compounds, cafes, seating areas and lots of live performances.
Ticket price: ILS 99. The ticket includes unlimited wine tastings through the various compounds.
Oded Paz, founder and partner in “Arnon Paz”: “White Red Nights Festival is the beginning of a tradition, and the visitors will enjoy four nights of an international multi-sensory experience”.
Ran Toren from “Avi Ben” wine stores and producer of the Jerusalem Wine Festival: “This time, we’ve created a huge festival where visitors could enjoy for ILS 99, a tasting of wines from all seven compounds of the festival; enjoy food stands, live music and especially an exciting entertainment experience”.
White Red Nights Festival 2012 – June 4th-7th, 2012
Gates opening: 19:00 PM.
Festival website: www.leylot.co.il
Tickets could be purchased at the Museum box offices or at “Leaan” Box Offices: www.leaan.co.il *8780.
Castel Reception Invitation Only!!!
June 6th 730PM
18 custom labels by 13 renown Israeli artists shown with the original art at the Tavi Gallery in the Neve Tzedek neighborhood of Tel Aviv
Space is limited but remaining invitations are available by contacting
[email protected]
The event and auction will honor and benefit
The Threefold Chord
A charity which cares for at risk youth in Jerusalem
Castel Gallery Showing June 7th to 13th, 10 am to 7PM
One week open to the public
Castel Auction June 24th
The auction takes place and is open to international bidders
All proceeds go to the charity
Artwork and labels are also viewable at:
http://castelartandwine.com/
2nd Annual Ra’anana Wine Festival
June 27th & 28th 6:30PM to 11:30 PM 60 NIS or 55 NIS for Ra’anana Residents (50 with a dinner receipt from a Ra’anana Restaurant)
At Park Ra’anana (on the west side near pond, restaurant & gallery)
One of Israel’s more affordable festivals still has more wine than you can probably try in one night
Advance tickets available by e-mailing : Sagi Epstein @
[email protected]
Jerusalem WIne Festival
July 30th to August 2nd 7PM to Midnight (Gates close at 1130PM)
80 NIS at the Israel Museum in the Sculpture Gardens
Israel’s largest wine festival gets even bigger this year!!!
Where: Haifa’s Rappaport Audiotorium’s Gardens on Mt. Carmel
When: May 22,23 & 24 6 to 11PM 50 NIS for the public
One of the best festivals to attend ..20 plus wineries with some who don’t venture too south and lectures and presentations and releases from the wineries each evening in adjacent private rooms…Andre Suidan is the organizer…a local wine merchant…
May 22,23 & 24 6 to 11PM 50 NIS for the public
Wine and cheese. No pairing of food and beverage is as ubiquitous in the Western world. Whether in North or South America or along the Mediterranean, when we think of one we most often think about enjoying it with the other. As Shavuot nears in Israel, a holiday where the consumption of dairy products in place of meat is the custom, Israeli wineries traditionally release and promote their white wines to coincide with Shavuot as well as to quench the thirst for chilled beverages that the rapidly encroaching Israeli summer demands.
Teperberg 1870, Israel’s fourth largest winery, launched their summer wines recently at the Rothschild boutique hotel in Tel Aviv. With their staff decked out in white attire and tables placed in the hotel’s backyard patio, the stage was set for Teperberg to roll out their varied selection of summer friendly wines.
We were greeted with a flute of 2010 Teperberg Brut (49 NIS), a fairly recent addition to their stable of wines making Teperberg only the sixth Israeli winery to make a Brut Champagne/Cava style of wine (along with Carmel, Golan Heights, Tishbi, Tabor and Pelter). Made from 90% Chardonnay grapes, as most Blanc de Blanc Champagnes wines, it is bolstered with 10% French Colombard grapes which adds to the complexity and the crisp acidity one desires from a Brut sparkling wine. With notes of green apples and sour dough bread I can imagine having this wine with some feta cheese and a freshly diced Israeli salad with a mint vinaigrette dressing. At only 12% alcohol, it’s a lighter offering than Teperberg’s still whites though the bubbles help it also pair with heavier fare such the Salmon ceviche we were served.
Next we were poured the 2011 Teperberg Sauvignon Blanc from their Terra series (50 NIS), the winery’s 2nd tier and largest selection of wines. This Sauvignon Blanc offers the expected varietal aromas of freshly cut grass and citric zest that has made Sauvignon Blanc the most common alternative to Chardonnay worldwide. With its pronounced crispness and citric notes, it’s a great match for the plethora of white fish dishes available to Israeli diners though when I think of Sauvignon Blanc I often salivate over pairing it with sushi. The grassy herbal notes play well seaweed wrappings leaving the fish to marry well with the fruitier facets of grapefruit and kiwi. With 12.8% alcohol, it’s a medium weight white but still light in contrast to the mostly 14% and 15% Israeli reds dominating the marketplace.
Of course no line up of dry Israeli white wines would be deemed complete without a Chardonnay to try. Teperberg’s 2011 Chardonnay from their Silver series (40 NIS) is as expected a heavier wine than their Sauvignon Blanc, with 13.3% alcohol, and in contrast to their Sauv Blanc exhibits Chardonnay’s classic punch of Anjou pears and in this case I would say Golden Delicious apples. 5 months in oak also adds to the fuller mouth feel of this wine which was prevented from undergoing a secondary fermentation which is becoming more and more common in Israeli Chardonnay. Their 2009 Teperberg Chardonnay Reserve (55 NIS) is their more serious Chardonnay with 10 months of oak aging which also is a bit more rounded due to the additional aging with sur lie and the higher alcohol level of 13.8%. It’s their only Reserve white wine.
Even though their next wine, the Teperberg 2011 Gewurztraminer Terra is made in smaller quantities than most of their other offerings, currently only 10,000 bottles/year, from a winery that makes produces millions each vintage. It’s a wine making a big impact with consumers and the winery has been planting more in its vineyards to try to keep up with demand. As a semi-dry wine, and on the sweeter edge of semi-dry wines with 15 grams of sugar/liter, it’s a good match with its many of Israel’s spicier dishes. I can see someone who enjoys lots of wasabi or “spicy mayo” with their sushi enjoying a glass or three as they gobble down a spicy tuna roll or with more traditional fare a nice match with shawarma with hawaij or Moroccan fish with sweetly caramelized grilled peppers and onions. Sweet and spicy curried rice dishes also come to mind. With an intense aroma of white peaches, apricots and varietal specific lychee, Gewurztraminer is becoming a fan favorite at many tastings I’ve attended and no winery in Israel that makes a good example seems to have a problem selling this hard to pronounce yet easy to enjoy wine.
Another popular and easily accessible white is Teperberg’s 2010 Late Harvest Riesling (500ml. bottle). With 100 grams of sugar/liter and only 10.3 % alcohol it’s most certainly a dessert wine rather than a dining wine. Nothing wrong with that. Israeli wineries are more and more offering a better selection of dessert wines as their reputation for dry wine’s improve. This Riesling offers classic notes of pear, apple, peach and lime with well-integrated notes of petrol that Riesling suitors embrace and have to be patient enough to seek out as a Riesling ages. Two years have been enough for those seeds here to blossom in this wine which is sweet enough to be a dessert on its own or be paired with possibly an almond croissant, creme brulee or peach melba. Also for those who like cheese as a dessert course, very “Continental”, a syrupy white dessert wine is ideal. Think of dripping some farm sourced boutique honey on the cheese for the maximum payoff of sweet and savory sensations.
For a lighter dessert option or as a possible aperitif is the “frizzante” 2011 Teperberg Moscato White (35 NIS) (they also make a Moscato Red sourced from Red Muscat grapes). Sourced from aromatic Muscat Alexdroni white grapes, this lightly alcoholic wine is an easily quaffable wine with about the same alcohol, 5.6 %, as many beers and as one of their least expensive wines is popular with younger consumers who might otherwise buy an imported sparkling Lambrusco. With 80 grams of sugar, it’s not a shy wine but its bubbles help off set the sweetness and it’s a bit less sweet than some other Israeli Moscato’s sporting closer to 100 grams/liter. Think of this wine as a great wine to pair with schnitzel or even falafel.
Teperberg also rolled out two more wines for the summer of 2012. The (35 NIS )2011 Teperberg Rose made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. A very light salmon hued rose with only 12% alcohol is a pleasant offering for backyard barbecues or a day at the beach. At only 35 NIS/bottle it’s about 1/2 the price of many boutique roses so you can drink it with reckless abandonment. Not a wine with a lot of depth, and at that price I had no such expectations, it still engendered the pleasing sensation of ripe berries smothered in heavy cream.
Just to show summer isn’t the exclusive venue for white wines (and sales would definitely confirm that they it is not) we tasted the 2011 Teperberg Sangiovese Silver (40 NIS) . A lighter Israeli red with only 13.4% alcohol, its a 40 NIS red that is easily perceived being sweet even if technically dry and if you wanted to slightly chill a red wine, this young fruity red displaying ripe sour cherries with a hint of violet aromas would pair well with pasta or pizza as its Italian roots might relish as well as grilled burgers, kebabs or sausages.
While this site is not a kosher wine site, with many Israeli wine not being kosher and much kosher wine not being Israeli, I know it’s of interest to some readers and so I’m reviewing a new book out on the market, written by a New York real estate expert, The Kosher Grapevine: Exploring the World of Fine Wine
Disclaimer: I received the book as a review copy
Irving Langer’s The Kosher Grapevine: Exploring the World of Fine Wine is a beautiful coffee table book, with stunning photography and one of the most attractive layouts that I have seen in any wine book. In addition, it does not suffer from the English flaws of other books about Israeli or kosher wines. Kudos to the copyeditor! It would look great on any bookshelf or coffee table.
With an introduction by Daniel Rogov, providing a short introduction to the modern kosher wine industry, this is a broad overview of the kosher wine industry and the elementary tips to start. This provides the basic foundation for begin entering the world of kosher wine.
Surprisingly, though, Rogov does not touch on the issues of Israeli wine. For example, in his discussion of what makes a wine kosher, he leaves out the agricultural laws related to wine from Israel, providing an incomplete picture when understanding kosher Israeli wine.
Written by a real estate expert, not a wine expert, this is not the book to go to for accurate knowledges on wine. Unfortunately marred by several factual errors, it should not be seen of as an objective reference book with several errors in the glossary both about wine and also kosher/Jewish law. It was not reviewed by wine experts and, unfortunately, that shows. If you are seeking a reference guide about wine, you would be better served with The Oxford Companion to Wine, 3rd Edition. In the glossary, they incorrectly define a varietal as a wine from a single grape variety and the word “derech” as a way of life, instead of “way” (Derech chaim would be a way of life). This errors do not stop, however, one from beginning their journey into wine appreciation, although, these glaring errors mar an attractive book.
In addition, one of the major flaws most books on kosher wine is that they treat kosher wine as a type of wine. So, for example, the chapter “Grape Varieties Used for Kosher Wines,” seems to imply that only certain grapes can be kosher — sure to lead to some misconceptions that other varietals can not be kosher. Nevertheless, for someone new to wine, The Kosher Grapevine: Exploring the World of Fine Wine provides an introductory framework to discovering the world of wine and beginning to enjoy it and is a great book if you are getting started on your journey to wine appreciation with its cute nostalgia (“no peasants with bare feet participate in this stage [crushing] anymore.”) The layout and beautiful pictures immerse the reader into the world of wine enjoyment.
While not intended for the expert, just as there are entry-level wines, The Kosher Grapevine is an acceptable entry-level wine book for people looking for the cultural nostalgia and some guidelines for how to start enjoying wine for pleasure. Just as an elementary school textbook does not have the accuracy of a university level textbook, this elementary book is a suitable entry into the world of kosher wine.
With high quality binding, amazing photography, and attractive layout, it is certainly appropriate for the bookshelf of the casual drinker.
CNN’s Erin Burnett discovers Carmel Winery and a beautiful bottle of Carmel Appellation with, yes, a camel on the bottle.
Ella Valley Winery is located in the valley of Ella in the Judean Hills, which has been a viticulturally important area for 2000 years. While, from an historical point of view, the aesthetically stunning Ella Valley is primarily known for the monumental show-down between David and Goliath; it does have other claims to fame. As with many other Israeli wineries, an ancient wine press was discovered on the site of the winery providing additional visual confirmation that the area had been used to grow grapes and make wine for centuries. If the workers of these ancient presses were to look into what was going on in Ella Valley today, I think they would be very proud of the continued heritage being carried out by the winery resulting in the highest quality of wines possible in addition to enjoying the esthetically pleasing look of the vineyards and the winery. From day one this winery knew what it wanted to be – the very best in Israel, producing high-quality, unique wines. The first vineyards were very carefully planted in 1997 after extensive research as to best location and plots of land and used techniques imported from Napa Valley. The very attractive winery was constructed in 2001 (with the first vineyards planted at Aderet in 1998 and is located on Kibbutz Netiv Halamed Hey in the Judean Hills. Over the last year or so the winery has undergone a number of management changes, the ramifications of which have yet to be seen, but which have the potential to change the winery’s destiny. First, the winery’s long-time, French-trained, winemaker Doron Rav Hon, who has been at the helm since the winery’s founding, left the winery and was replaced by Australian-trained (University of Adelaide) Lin Gold, whose prior experience includes stints at both Tabor Winery and Chateau Golan (non-kosher). Doron’s last full vintage will be the 2010 wines, some of which have already been released (like their amazing Sauvignon Blanc and always intriguing Chardonnay), and others for which we will have to wait (like the 2010 Cabernet Franc, consistently one of Israel best and, together with Four Gates’ version, the best kosher Cabernet Franc wines available). Doron was around for the 2011 harvest, assisting Lin, but the winemaking decisions for that vintage will be all Lin’s and her first wine will be the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc which I have not yet tasted and will be released soon (she is also responsible for the blending of the 2010 wines). It will be interesting to see what she comes up with in a year that most view as a “winemaker’s year” (meaning a vintage in which the best winemakers will make extraordinary wines while the less talented will struggle with the decisions necessitated by a slow maturation followed by periods of rain and cold matched by hot spells). I am also waiting to see whether Doron’s philosophy of making Burgundy-like wines of clean and pure fruit (more in their white wines than red) will continue, or whether Lin’s Australia training will create something new. The second change, which followed a few months after Doron’s departure, was the resignation of Danny Valero as CEO of the winery and who was replaced by Udi Kaplan, the winery’s longtime manager. We will have to see whether Danny’s pet and vintage motorcycle collection remain on location at the winery or whether they find alternative decorative accents. Ironically, the rumor on the street is that Doron’s departure was at least partially a result of Danny who is now gone… We’ll have to wait and see where Doron ends up, but we will most likely be hearing about a new Israeli boutique winery opening up soon, and from which I am sure amazing wines will flow. Only question is whether he will decide to make it a kosher winery (while I am hopeful given his talents, it is more likely to be a non-kosher winery). Given that both Danny and Doron (together with Udi) have been around since the winery’s founding, these are substantive changes. Ella Valley is currently producing around 220,000 bottles annually (with a smaller production of about 150,000 in the 2008 Shmittah year as the majority of Shmittah wines are not exported) with nearly 40% of the winery’s production designated for export. The winery has two main vineyards (which are wholly owned by the winery) both located in close proximity to the winery, with 400 dunam of vineyards at Aderet (located opposite the winery) which is considered the winery’s main vineyard and planted at 350 meter above sea level and approximately 250 dunam in the Nes Harim vineyard planted at 720 meters above sea level and where the majority of white wines and the Pinot Noir are sourced. Despite the fact that their Merlot is among the most interesting in Israel and they make what I feel is Israel’s best Cabernet Franc, the white wines of the winery are extra special with bright clean fruit that is elevated rather than dominated by oak (in the case of the Chardonnays) or manipulation (in the case of the Sauvignon Blanc) while remaining very well priced. Having the winery and vineyards in such close proximity allows for a superior wine making process, providing both the ability to control every aspect of the planting, tending and harvesting and allowing for very minimal time between harvest and the beginning of the wine making process (i.e. fermentation). The approximately 750 dunams of vineyards owned by the winery are so vast that Ella Valley only uses approximately on third of their best grapes, selling the rest to many of the other local wineries (although the winery recently gave up approximately 100 dunam of vineyards located on the kibbutz itself in order to focus on their other premium vineyards). The first vintage was in 2002 and despite it being a relatively poor vintage year in Israel; their first offerings were a resounding success. Starting with the 2003 vintage the winery created its reserve series – Vineyard’s Choice, and is currently producing excellent wines in three series: Vineyard’s Choice, Ella Valley and Ever Red. The winery also produces a private label wine for export – Hai. While the Vineyard’s Choice wines are truly top-tier and world-class, they, like many other top Israeli boutique wineries, carry rather hefty price-tags, especially in the US. The Ella Valley series wines are almost as good and much better priced. While not quite a value winery like Galil Mountain or Recanati, Ella Valley is consistently excellent and it’s a pretty safe bet that anything they make is going to be good (with the caveat that there are many vintages left on the shelves that have seen better days and are now well past their prime). Unfortunately they are not as well known as some other wineries, both as a result of their size and their distribution process, which is truly a crying shame as they produce some of the best and most interesting wines out there and are well worth your time, effort, palate and wallet. While 2010 is considered a potentially problematic vintage in Israel, both Doron and Lin are of the view that it was a spectacular vintage for Ella Valley and the 2010 wines I have tasted so far certainly bear out that premise. Listed below are some of their wines, most of which are available on the US market. For some of their other wines which I recently (and not so recently) reviewed, check out Ella Valley’s page on my website and stay tuned for some to-be-released treats including a sparkling wine a Vineyards Choice Chardonnay. Also, see if you can find some of the Personal 2008, a special blended wine made by Doron in honor of his departure which is a truly special wine.
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2005: Just another example of how, notwithstanding their magnificent Cabernet Franc, Merlot is what helps set this winery apart from all others. An easy example of a regular series wine that fully deserves to be elevated to their upper-tier Vineyard’s Choice label, but it’s better for us this way since it stays eminently affordable. Muscular, robust, aggressive and bold are not your typical buzz words when talking about Merlot, but those traits combined with the wine’s elegance, depth, richness and complexity make for an absolutely killer combo – give this some time in your glass and it really comes together. Tons of blackberries, raspberries and tangy sharp plums backed by pepper, wood and nice hints of chocolate. A well balanced structure and a long caressing finish loaded with fruit and hints of dark chocolate round this delight out. A wine with the rare combo of being food-friendly and big, bold and powerful.
Ella Valley, Syrah, 2007: A wine that can be enjoyed on its own or with food although I prefer it with food. A medium to full bodied intense wine loaded with blackberries, plums, currants and raspberries on the nose with additional hints of bitter citrus peel and earthiness added on the palate. An incredible depth of flavor and nuance throughout with slightly spicy oak, asphalt and more black fruit on the mid palate, leading into a long finish of black forest fruit, graphite and more dark chocolate. While I don’t see the wine getting any better with age it will easily keep for another year or two.
Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Ella Valley is one of the only Israeli wineries that actually blends their varietal Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot to punch it up (in this case, 15% of Merlot), but given their incredibly powerful Merlot, it makes sense and the addition does contribute nicely to the final wine, resulting in a rich and voluptuous similar to the Vineyards Choice version reviewed below with a little less retrained elegance. A rich ripe nose of black fruit with some red notes added including cassis, blackcurrant, blackberries and ripe plums, together with some spicy oak from the 16 months it spent French oak (a bit more new oak than the VC wine below), some mineral flintiness, crushed Mediterranean herbs and some bakers chocolate. Much of the same follow the round and mouth filling full bodied palate with plenty more crushed black fruit; toasty oak and slight notes of pleasing greenness all on a solid backbone of robust tannins that still need some time o settle down and play nice. Drinking nicely now, give the wine 15 minutes to open up in your glass first and then enjoy through 2015.
Ella Valley Vineyards, Vineyards Choice, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: As benefits a true “Reserve” label, Ella Valley only releases a Vineyards Choice wine for vintages it feels will properly honor the label and this Cabernet Sauvignon does so with aplomb. While Cabernet Sauvignon has always been the weakest link in Ella Valley’s tremendous portfolio, they have redeemed themselves with the two versions from the 2007 vintage, both deliciously voluptuous wines, with a primal elegance I found extremely enjoyable. Blended with 10% Merlot and 5% Petite Sirah and aged in 30% new French oak for 17 months, this is a full bodied wine with muscular and silky (near-sweet) tannins wrapped around a juicy core of varietally true dense black fruit including blackberries, cassis and black cherries, together with plenty of toasty oak, a hint of kirsch, pure dark chocolate, oriental spices, a hint of eucalyptus, roasted espresso coffee and some earthy minerals leading into a long and luxurious finish that lingers. Deep, rich and complex, with layers of flavors and nuance, this is an elegant wine with plenty of power. Give this wine another year to develop in the bottle and cellar through 2017, perhaps longer.
Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2009: Given my public love affair with Cabernet Franc, it will likely not come as a surprise that this is one of my favorite wines from the winery, one I have been following since its first inception in 2003, and one that continuously ends up being one of Israel’s best and easily the one I enjoy the most. The 2008 vintage of this wine was spectacular (see my prior note) and the 2009 vintage is shaping up to be even better with an exceptionally elegant structure and a luscious medley of fruit, wood and green notes. A rich nose of mostly juicy red fruit including raspberries, cranberries and currants together with the characteristically true green pepper and notes of pine (although Doron takes pains to reduce the overt green notes) follows onto a palate of more fruit, spicy oak, near-sweet cedar, cured tobacco leaf and a mineral streak that is starting to become more prominent in many of Ella Valley’s wines. Amazing now, this wine will continue to develop in the bottle and should stick around for 4-5 more years through 2016.
Ella Valley Vineyards, Pinot Noir, 2008 (Shmittah): While not every wine I have tasted from the vaunted 2008 Israeli vintage is the superstar some would have us believe, this wine made from 100% Pinot Noir Grapes harvested from Ella Valley’s Aderet vineyard was really delicious and something special. An elegant wine and full bodied (yet so gentle) with plenty of black and red fruit on both the nose and palate including black cherries, cassis and strawberries with some spicy oak resulting from the 16 months in French oak leading into a strawberry and cherry-laced finish with a hint of tannin. Bold tannins that needed some time to settle down in the glass but with a stylish structure that bodes extremely well for the continued development of this wine. In an effort to pamper this fickle grape, Ella Valley actually erected a canopy over the vines to protect from the harsh Israeli sun. I don’t know if it helped but the proof is surely in the wine which is scrumptious. Great now, this wine should cellar nicely for 3-4 years.
Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2010: The Chardonnays from Ella Valley are always well made and exiting for their individuality. Doron was one of Israel’s first winemakers to produce an oaked and unoaked version in the same vintage year (a gauntlet Binyamina has now taken up with nice success) and despite their oakiness, many of these wines have a pleasing minerality to them which is somewhat unique among Israeli Chardonnays (although it is becoming less and less rare these days). I believe this is the first Chardonnay made by Ella Valley that went through malolactic fermentation and it consists of grapes from both Nes Harim and Aderet. This wine could still use some time for the wood to recede to the background, but it is very well made with nice tropical fruit and hints of citrus together with a pleasing bitter streak of minerals that promise to come together nicely in about six months or so (avoid overly chilling this wine – it will kill the delightful aromatics and blur the minerals making you miss out on half the fun). A huge nose of aromatic fruit including peaches, apricots, grapefruit and citrus with tart green apple and hints of pineapple on the nose together with toasty oak and some vanilla (just a bit). On the palate more tropical fruit, toasty oak and a mineraly streak present an elegant, round and mouth filling wine. As with the Chardonnay wines from the Golan Heights Winery, I’d give this one another 12 months or so in the bottle before opening and you will be rewarded for your patience with a real Israeli Chardonnay – something to write home about.
Ella Valley Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, 2010: While the 2011 vintage is to be released shortly in Israel, as is common in the United States we are a little behind and the 2010 is our current vintage. Fear not, as it’s quite a delightful and refreshing wine; a good one to be enjoyed with at least the first tease of Spring New York is currently experiencing. Doron’s philosophy has been to make a clean Sauvignon Blanc and not try to disguise it as a leaner Chardonnay and the results truly speak for themselves. Blended with 10% Sémillon (both grapes from the winery’s Nes Harim vineyards), this is a medium bodied wine with pure tropical fruit on the nose, including white peaches, pineapple and cantaloupe together with limes and other citrus notes, freshly cut grass and some minerals and nice acidity on the palate to keep things fresh and lively (despite the label, Lin tells me the wine didn’t see any oak and spent 9 months in stainless steel). At 12.5%, the wine is a nice match to food – enjoy over the next 12-18 months.
Marks and Spencer, the iconic British food and clothing retailer founded by two Jewish families, has chosen a special selection of wines from the Eastern Mediterranean. Following new interest in Eastern Mediterranean food, M&S has chosen fifteen wines from Croatia, Greece, Israel, Lebanon, Turkey and Slovenia. These will be available in their wine division, on line and will complement the Eastern Med foods in their deli, bakery and prepared food ranges.
The wines will range between GBP 7.99 and GBP 12.49 (pounds.)
There are two wines from Israel on the list, from Barkan Winery and Binyamina Winery. Barkan is Israel’s second largest winery, which is owned by Tempo Beer Industries, Israel’s largest brewery. Barkan is situated at Hulda, south east of Tel Aviv. Their Barkan Classic Sauvignon Blanc 2011 has been chosen.
Binyamina Winery, situated in the town of Binyamina, south of Haifa, is owned by the Hezi Hinam Supermarket Chain. It is Israel’s fourth largest winery. Their Binyamina Merlot 2010 is part of the selection.
Marks and Spencer is one of the UK’s main wine retailers, having a comprehensive range of wines situated within their food halls. In the past they have listed wines from both Carmel Winery and the Golan Heights Winery. Their wine buyer for Eastern Mediterranean wines, Emma Dawson, visited Israel for the IsraWinexpo exhibition in February.
The Eastern Mediterranean is one of the most ancient wine regions, which gave wine culture to the world. Recently the whole wine region has experienced a renaissance making it one of the most dynamic, fast changing of all wine regions. Recently wines from places like Greece, Lebanon and Israel have been receiving rave reviews and Turkish wines have also been creating enormous interest, particularly in their indigenous varieties. The wine trade spent many years focusing on the Old World. Then everyone became infatuated with New World wines. The latest interest, reflected by M&S’s praiseworthy initiative, is the rise again of the Ancient World!
As I have often mentioned, while most wines are meant to be consumed early and don’t benefit from any additional time in the bottle, a few years of cellaring can make magic happen for a small percentage of quality wines (usually the most exciting ones). The additional time in the bottle gives the tannins, acid, fruit and flavors time to come together in the harmonious music the wine maker intended. However, this week I wanted to focus on another oenophilic area in which age can play a paramount role and be a big factor in the quality, flavor and perhaps most relevant, intensity, of the wine – the vines. Wine growers around the world have nothing but praise, adoration and love for their “old vines”, sometimes talking about them in language usually reserved for ones children. While not all growers (or wine drinkers) agree that the age of the vine makes a difference, most people feel that there is something special in a wine made from old vines. First, what exactly constitutes an “old vine”? While there is no hard and fast rule governing this distinction, nor is its use on wine labeling heavily regulated, a lot depends on where in the world you are. For places like France, Spain or Argentina with many vines between 50-100 years of age, an old vine needs to be at least 50 years old. On the other hand, in relatively new wine growing regions like New Zealand, Oregon or Israel, a 25-30 year old vine is pretty darn old and already worthy of the title. As a vine ages, at around the 20-year mark it starts to undergo a number of changes which directly effect the quality of grapes it produces. These changes include deeper and stronger roots, enabling the vine to benefit from a more diverse range of nutrients and minerals. In a rainy harvest season the deeper roots protect vines from excessive water which can lead to bloated grapes with a substantially reduced concentration of flavor, and in a dry season, the roots help the vines find the necessary moisture that might only exist deep below the surface. As the vine ages it starts to suffer from reduced circulation as well. This results in fewer nutrients being available, leading to a reduction in yield (usually between 1-3 tons per acre). As the vine now needs to service a smaller number of grapes, they benefit from increased concentration and flavor and provide for more nuance and complexity (although the added complexity tends to be more prominent as the wine in question ages and the bright fruit recedes into the background). As with maturing adults, another benefit of old vines is their stability. While the wines produced from younger vines can change from harvest to harvest depending on the weather, with substantial shifts in the levels of sugar, acid and other phenolic compounds, old vines are much steadier from year to year and rarely produce unbalanced grapes. A grower may also have the ability to harvest a little earlier if necessary, as old-vine grapes often ripen earlier. While these attributes are less important in a warm growing climate like Israel, they can make or break a harvest in colder regions like France and are much appreciated by the growers. Listed below are a number of old-vine wines currently on the market, all of which are worth seeking out. Included in the list are two wines (the Cave and Recanati Carignan) available only in Israel and in limited quantities, but very special wines, worth taking the time to seek out and bringing back a few bottles.
Binyamina, The Cave, Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: I was never a big fan of Binyamina’s boutique Cave wines, finding them underwhelming and overpriced. This changed with the 2006 vintage that I loved and included it in my Pessach Shopping List. The party continues with this 2007 Single Version Old Vine version produced as a very limited edition (1,200 bottles) from the famed Kerem Ben-Zimra vineyard. I purchased a number of bottles based on Daniel Rogov’s recommendation and finally got a chance to taste one over the weekend – it was spectacular. A rich nose and palate of blackberries, plums and black cherries along with earthy notes of forest and cloves. Nice notes of sweet oak, tar, acid combine with well integrated yet powerful tannins for a deep, complex and rich wine with a long and caressing finish. I probably opened this wine a little too early which, while eminently enjoyable now, will continue to improve in the bottle for another for a few years and cellar comfortably for ten years or so.
Recanati, Carignan, Reserve, Kerem Ba’al, 2009: Given the success Carmel has had with its Old Vine Carignan (tasting note below), it was only a matter of time before another awesome expression of the varietal founds its way to the market. In addition to being over 30 years old, these are true bush vines from the Judean Hills, that have flourished since their planting without irrigation, pruning, support (known as the “goblet” system) or other methods of human meddling (Ba’al is loosely Hebrew for wild). As would be expected, these are low-yield vines of less than two tons per acre. A wine that gracefully straddles power and elegance. Muscular tannins that needed half an hour to an hour to soften up in my glass and allow the fruit and spice to shine through but very much in balance with the fruit. Plenty of blackberries, currents and other black forest fruit along with warm spices, chocolate, espresso, white pepper and anise on both the nose and palate, with a good jolt of balancing acidity leading into a medium finish that lingers nicely. The fruit is on the restrained side and elegant, which is consistent with Recanati’s recent direction away from fruit forward wines towards retrained Mediterranean elegance. Very different and delicious, this wine is another candidate for some serious cellaring. Another limited edition wine with about 5,900 bottles produced.
Capçanes, La Flor de Flor, 2007: As the Peraj Ha’abib from Capcanes has long been my one of my favorite wines, I was very excited when they released this 100% Garnacha wine, with grapes from vines that are between 85-105 years old. The wine manages to be full-bodied, elegant and feminine in one fell swoop, while remaining rich, deep and concentrated. Well integrated, near-sweet tannins provide a solid backbone for layers of black cherries, plums, violets and other flowers, spices and some dark chocolate, with hints of smoky oak and flinty minerals. A long finish rounds out this wine that will probably be at its best in a year or so and cellar for up to another eight years after that.
Carmel, Appellation, Carignan, 2007: The Carignan grape was probably a significant contributor to Carmel’s prior horrific reputation for terrible wines given that it was a major component in cheaper and unappealing wines. This wine really puts the much maligned grape in a whole new (favorable) light. Using grapes from 40 year old vines and blended with some Petit Verdot for good measure, this wine has great fruit and is slightly spicy with hints of espresso and a nice finish. Not many folks do well by this grape but Carmel certainly does.
Carmel, Appellation, Petite Sirah, 2007: The 2006 vintage of this wine won Decanter’s wine of the month last year and the 2007 is up to the challenge posited by its younger brother. While “old vine” means different things in different countries, these Petite Sirah vines are over 30 years old and produce a concentrated and full-bodied wine. The raspberries, blackberries, cassis and plums on both the nose and palate combine with warm spices, Mediterranean herbs and a tobacco leaf overlay, making for a delightful wine indeed. Another YH Best Buy.
Carmel Vintage, Fortified Petite Sirah, 2007: Made from 100% old vine Petite Sirah grapes and fortified with additional alcohol, this is a delicious dessert wine but one whose time has come so drink up any you have lying around. Aromas of raisins, plums, chocolate and spices are followed by mocha, coffee, sweet (and slightly tangy) jammy berries on the palate, with enough acidity and pleasant spiciness to balance the sweetness from becoming overpowering and flabby on the palate. Hints of slightly bitter almonds do a good job of keeping the sweetness honest and the entire wine in good balance. As opposed to the Porto Cordovero wine, I often enjoy this wine with food, as it pairs nicely with most sweet desserts.
