I’m not the only enthusiast for Israeli wine here in the Holy Land. And apparently someone’s a bigger fan of Gary V than myself (personally, I want to be the next Daniel Rogov or Robert Parker).
Mitch Scheider, who has connections in the kosher wine world, has started Decanting Israel, which is a video show featuring kosher Israeli wines.
In his first visit, Mitch and his partner, Adam Neustader, check out Tzuba and taste the Tzuba Metzuda Shiraz. Tzuba has recently become imported in the United States by the kosher monopoly of Royal.
Leave a comment? Are Mitch and Adam the next Gary V?
You can also follow Mitch on Twitter at @decantingisrael.
Incidentally, if you’re not already following me, you can follow HaKerem at – you guessed it – @hakerem
by Amos Ravid
Amos Ravid is Wine Education Manager of Carmel Winery. This article first appeared in Wine, Gourmet & Alcohol and Wines Israel.
Although Israel has a long history of winemaking, the country does not have its own indigenous grape varieties. The Ottomans, when in control of Palestine, virtually only permitted the planting of vineyards designated to produce food grapes, which brought winemaking to a halt for hundreds of years. It is likely that many local grape varieties disappeared during this time. The renewal of the winemaking in Israel was in the mid 19th century and it developed into a real industry in the late 1880’s. Since then and especially in the last 30 years, there has been a tremendous advance in the range of wine grape varieties planted in Israel. This article is designed to follow the story of the different varieties, using evidence from various sources and to focus on the successes & failures on the way.
From Home Winemaking to an Industry
Viticulture only really became an industry in the years of the First Aliyah. Until then, the Jewish communities of Palestine were centered in Jerusalem, Hebron, Tiberias and Safed. The inhabitants were Orthodox Jews who studied Torah and survived mainly through donations from abroad. Only a very small group of Jews in those days had a supplementary income from what were considered useful trades. So there were for instance shoemakers, tailors and butchers. A similar cottage industry of the time was home winemaking, which was necessary to supply Kiddush (sacramental) wine for the religious Jewish community or Communion and Altar wine for Christian pilgrims seeking ‘wine from The Holy Land’. The first recorded evidence of this was in the Old City of Jerusalem, when the Shor family started making wine there in 1848.
In those days agriculture was something to be frowned upon. So wineries primarily made use of the local varieties grown by Arabs in the Bethlehem area. Yosef Weitz of Keren Kayemet, gave us an insight to this in his book ‘Hagefen – The Vine’ published in 1931. He says the main white varieties of this period were Hallili (aka Hevroni), Sallati, Marawi, Sharwishi, Dabuki, Gendeli, Halbani, Romi, Hadari and Hamdani. Amongst the reds were: Zeitani, Singeli, Karkashani, Razaki, Shemi, Karashi and more. Weitz pointed out that “the Zeitani was similar in size to an olive (Zeit is the word for olive) and the taste was reminiscent of Cabernet and was good to make wine with.” The names of many of these grapes reflect their Arab origin. The Hevroni was later planted in Rishon Le Zion & Rehovot in the late 19th century and the Dabuki still endures in some vineyards.
The First Trials
The first Jewish agricultural experience in viticulture was at the Mikveh Israel; Agricultural School (then near Jaffa, but situated next to the Holon of today), founded in 1870. The cuttings which were later used to plant the vineyards of Rishon Le Zion, were taken from there. However according to Weitz, the very first vineyard in 1870 was grown from cuttings from the local Arab communities, but this initial attempt was a failure.
At the same time the Templar settlement of Sharona (in today’s Tel Aviv near the Kyria, the headquarters of the Israel Defence Forces) were also planting vineyards. The Templars were Christian pilgrims from Germany who believed in settling in the Holy Land. There is not much evidence about the varieties used, but there are clues from Eliyahu Scheid, who managed the Rothschild interests in Palestine. He wrote: “they planted simple German varieties”. The resulting wines also give a clue – one of the wines was called Sylvaner, a ‘simple’ grape variety from Germany.
Continue reading A History of Grape Varieties in Israel 1848 – 2008
Wine Spectator is currently holding its 2009 Video Content and 9 finalists have been announced. Among the video finalists is a little known wine critic named Daniel Rogov talking about wine from a little known wine region called ISRAEL.
Unfortunately, I can’t embed the video but it’s available here (and then click here to Wine Spectator’s site to actually vote). After watching Daniel Rogov, as the old school “Expert Source” (and yes, he really is like that!), along with the beautiful Mirra Manevich and Tal Averbuch of Premier Cru, solve the mystery of kosher wine and see why the myth of bad kosher wine still exists (hint, it’s not because of Israel but rather a certain winery from upstate New York), please VOTE for Wine Detective in the Wine Spectator contest.
Incidentally, after voting for the video, you can check out a few stills at winedetective.tv
Jerusalem.com has an interview with Dan Vered, owner of the Jerusalem Wine and Art store in the Old City in Jerusalem, which is a new wine shop in Jerusalem’s Jewish Quarter.
While Israel’s “wine revolution” only took place in the last few decades, as we’ve said before, Israel has been making wine for thousands of years.
Dan Vered, who sounds like an American immigrant to Israel, tells the story about Israel’s long history with wine making – and particularly the Jerusalem region.
And, of course, thanks to Jerusalem.com for telling the story!
Rosh Hashana, Jewish New Year, is this weekend.
What are you drinking?
I’m thinking of the Barkan Carignan and the new Yiron Meron. Good choices?
How about you?
In honor of Gary Vaynerchuk’s appearance in Wednesday’s New York Times, I’ve compiled my own Top 10 Reasons Why I love Gary V!
10. Gary V reminds me a little of myself.
Gary Vaynerchuk turned his father’s Shoppers Discount Liquor into the $60 million a year Wine Library. My father also used to own a liquor store (as did my uncle and grandfather) but it was definitely not a $60 million a year business.
9. Gary V has passion. ‘Nuf said
8. Gary V’s really a closet geek. I mean, who else would post pictures of himself in a powder blue suit on Facebook? More importantly, who EVER owned a powder blue suit?
Dude, what’s up with his hair?
7. Gary V is a tech geek.
6. Gary V does his research. Dude learned wine from reading Wine Spectator before he was 21 and eating all sorts of food that was mentioned in the tasting notes.
Continue reading 10 Reasons Why I Love Gary V
The Wine Spectator has its latest review of kosher, Israeli wines for the High Holidays.
Wines tasted include:
GOLAN HEIGHTS WINERY Gewürztraminer Galilee Yarden Heights Wine 2006 Score: 90 | $23 / 375ml
BINYAMINA The Cave Galilee 2005 Score: 89 | $65
CARMEI ZVI-SEGAL BROS. Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee Heights Segal’s Special Reserve 2004 Score: 88 | $20
DOMAINE DU CASTEL Chardonnay Haute-Judée C Blanc du Castel 2007 Score: 88 | $45
ZION Armon Galilee 2005 Score: 88 | $35
ZION Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee Tidhar 2006 Score: 87 | $15
GOLAN HEIGHTS WINERY Gewürztraminer Galilee Yarden 2008 Score: 86 | $12
PSAGOT Merlot Judean Hills 2006 Score: 86 | $25
BINYAMINA Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee Reserve 2006 Score: 85 | $25
GALIL MOUNTAIN Yiron Galilee 2006 Score: 85 | $24
PSAGOT Cabernet Sauvignon Judean Hills 2006 Score: 85 | $29
Of course, as Daniel Rogov wrote:
Every year, as we approach Rosh HaShannah (the onset of the Jewish year), magazines and newspapers the world over post items or articles about wines for the holiday. All of which is fine, except that one day those same magazines and newspapers might finally realize that these wines are as appropriate year-round as they are for “the holidays”.
Rogov makes one more important warning about the picture of the pewter wine cups, which bears repeating to the kosher wine / holiday set:
I do not recommend drinking from silver or pewter cups (as illustrated in the article) but from high quality crystal wine glasses..
Two Israeli wineries have been included in Oz Clarke’s Pocket Wine Book 2010. Domaine du Castel and Yatir Winery are both listed for the first time signalling more recognition for the advances of Israeli wine.
As far as wine recommendation goes, Castel’s Grand Vin and Yatir Forest are both awarded two stars. ‘C’ Blanc du Castel and Yatir Cabernet Sauvignon are each awarded one star. Two stars equates to: “An excellent wine in its category – one especially worth seeking out.” One star is for: “A particularly good wine in its category.”
In a small section covering Israel at the beginning of the book, Clarke mentions the following wineries: Castel, Yatir, the Yarden label of the Golan Heights Winery and Carmel’s Upper Galilee wines. He cites Clos de Gat and Margalit as the best non kosher wineries.
Oz Clarke, like so many of the world’s preeminent wine personalities, is from Britain. His Pocket Wine Book is in a different format to Hugh Johnson’s, with listings according to the alphabet instead of by country. Thus Yatir finds itself sandwiched between Yarra Valley and Yellow Tail!
Ex-actor Oz Clarke, is one of the most important wine authors and an entertaining TV personality, bringing wine into the home. He is known for his phenomenal palate, irreverent style and enthusiasm. His books on Bordeaux, Grapes & Wines and his Wine Atlas will be on the shelves of many wine lovers. However it is wine educational programs on television for which he is most well-known.
(This story first appeared at http://www.wines-israel.co.il/len/ascrolling%20news/187444.php)
If you happen to be near Jerusalem, this is an opportunity to taste a boutique winery near Jerusalem:
For those of you who were not able to attend the Harvest Celebration at the Katamon winery, you’ll have another chance as Avital has agreed to bring his wines to us for next Friday’s tasting.
Katamon Winery
Just in time for the holidays Avital Goldner will be bringing his superb wines for our final tasting event of the season. Avital makes both white and full bodied red wines, so there will be something for everyone. The wines are strictly Kosher.Date: Friday, September 11, 2009 Time: 11:00 – 16:00
Location: 52 Nof Harim, Har Adar
