The London 2012 Olympics are about to start. England is known for frenetic, physical football, unique pubs, flat beer, tea with milk, fish and chips and the Queen. it is also a city which is known for being the center of the wine trade and has been so for over 200 years. It was there where Port, Sherry, Champagne and Bordeaux were first brought to the world’s attention.
Most of the world’s best wine writers, apart from Robert Parker, are based in or close to London. Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson, Oz Clarke are icons and are read and respected the world over. Arguably the world’s top wine education bodies are based in London. The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), The Institute of Masters of Wine and Court of Master Sommeliers were all founded and are based in the United Kingdom. Three of the world’s most important wine tasting competitions are held in London. Awards at the Decanter Fine Wine Awards, International Wines & Spirits Competition and International Wine Challenge carry special weight. The leading wine auction houses of Christies and Sotheby’s are also based in London, though they have branches around the world.
New trends in wine invariably begin in London. The first sighting of Australian, Chilean & South African wines was in London, long before they succeeded elsewhere. The reason is that London is the most cosmopolitan of all wine markets, in a country without a significant wine industry of their own. In France, the wines available are mainly French. In California, they are mainly from California. In Israel, mainly from Israel. However in England, everyone is there. There are wines there from exotic places like Uruguay, Brazil, India, Thailand, China…even Israel!
It is not the most successful wine market for Israeli wines. The mecca for Israeli wines is the United States. Maybe the comparative size of the Jewish community has something to do with this. Despite this,England is still the third largest export market for Israeli wines.
Israeli wine has been in England since 1898, when the Palestine Wine Company was founded in London and began selling Palwin wines. Palwin became the number one kosher wine in England with the same dominance that Manischevitz had in the United States. Palwin wines were sold by number (No. 10, No.4 etc), so new immigrants would be able to identify and pronounce them more easily.
Every Jewish male would have his first taste of Palwin at his Brit Mila. It was also a fixture at Seder Nights, festivals and Shabbat eves. However it was also this memory of sweet red sacramental wines that encouraged so many Jewish people to have no faith in Israeli wines and wine experts to assume that ‘Jewish’ wines and Israeli wines were one and the same.
Carmel wines have been in London in three different centuries, the 19th, 20th and 21st centuries. They were the first Israeli wines to be in the major English supermarkets and were the flag bearer of Israeli wines for so long. For much of the 20th century they had their own Carmel Wine Co. offices in London.
The quality break-through came when Dr. Peter Hallgarten, owner of the respected family firm, The House of Hallgarten, decided to import the wines of The Golan Heights Winery in the mid 1980’s. Peter Hallgarten was Jewish, but his company was, and still is, one of the top importers of wine in the United Kingdom. It was a vote of confidence in the new quality of Israeli wines when Yarden and Gamla wines were represented in a prestigious company in the general market. Peter Hallgarten, a world acknowledged specialist in the wines of Burgundy, the Rhone and Germany, was also an inventor of liqueurs. When he decided to become a champion for the new quality Israeli wines, it was a giant step forward.
Today the main importers of Israeli wine into the UK are Kedem Europe, an off shoot of the giant, Royal Wine Corp. In the UK they represent Barkan, Castel, Dalton & Segal amongst others. The company is efficiently and dynamically run by Shia Morris Herzog, of the Herzog family, owners of Royal /Kedem in the United States. They are the largest marketers of Israeli wines in the UK today.
Today the three wineries that have succeeded to be represented in the general wine market are Carmel, Clos de Gat and Yatir. Both Carmel and Yatir are imported by Enotria one of the best wine importers and distributors in the United Kingdom. They are on Enotria’s high quality list alongside wines from Lebanon and Morocco in a section devoted to the Eastern & Southern Mediterranean. Enotria started out as Italian specialists but have since developed one of the finest ‘books’ in England featuring wines from all over. They are the number one specialists in sales to restaurants.
Clos de Gat is represented by Sichel. Like Hallgarten, Sichel is one of the old stalwarts of the English wine trade, also founded by a Jewish family with German roots. They now have an exclusive list including top Bordeaux wines and they also list Clos de Gat, arguably the best non kosher, Israeli winery to be sold in England.
London is a wine paradise. You can visit a specialist wine shop like Berry Brothers & Rudd in St. James St., which does not appear to have changed since Dickensian times, but scratch below the surface and you will find a retailer as up to date and savvy as any.
The retail wine market is very much held in the hands of the large supermarkets. These are great places to purchase wine. They have a comprehensive range of wines and prices are attractive. Look for Tesco, the largest or Waitrose, arguably the best of the chains. Dalton,Teperberg , Barkan & Segal all have wines listed at Tesco. Barkan is listed at Waitrose.
Marks & Spencer, the iconic retail chain specializing in clothing and food, have a very good wine section. They are now running an innovative promotion of Eastern Mediterranean wines. Like Enotria, they have understood the new potential of this modern ancient wine region. Israeli wines are listed alongside Greek, Lebanese and Turkish wines. This is focusing on the wine region that gave wine culture to the world, made terrible wine for 2,000 years and is now one of the most exciting, dynamic new wine regions there are. The Israeli wines at M&S are Barkan Sauvignon Blanc & Binyamina Merlot.
If you don’t want to buy wine in the large supermarkets, the best venue is Majestic, a chain of warehouse stores where purchases are made in case lots. If you prefer to shop in London’s most exclusive store, then a visit to Harrods in Knightsbridge is a must. They have a very prestigious wine shop. Carmel, Clos de Gat and Yatir wines represent Israel there, amongst the world’s finest.
A more traditional stopping point for the Jewish community is Selfridges of Oxford Street. They have a kosher section in the magnificent food hall, with a range of kosher wines. However Israel also features in their main wine shop, which is small, but very exclusive. There you will find a Castel Grand Vin and Carmel Kayoumi Cabernet Sauvignon alongside Chateau Musar.
Many of the world’s finest restaurants are in London and some of the best are close to the outskirts of London. Visit the three star Fat Duck at Bray in Berkshire, arguably the finest restaurant in Britain, and you will find two Israeli wines on the wine list. The Carmel Kayoumi Shiraz and the Yatir Merlot Shiraz Cabernet blend fly the flag.
If you are looking for the Israeli connection, you may seek out one of the innovative Yotam Ottolenghi’s four restaurants. This Israeli born chef brings the flavors of Israel to London. Apart from Selfridges, kosher wines may be found at shops called Sussers and The Grapevine in North London. The best kosher restaurant is Bevis Marks, alongside the beautiful 300 year old Bevis Marks Synagogue in the City.
So if you are not interested in sport as London becomes the center of attention, you could always become a wine tourist in the city which for so many years has been the backbone of the world’s wine trade.
Nestled amongst the vines of Israel’s largest contiguous vineyard at Kibbutz Hulda, about thirty minutes southwest of Tel Aviv, Israel’s second largest winery, Barkan, hosted a press event to inaugurate it’s new and long awaited visitor center and to launch its release of their three Cabernet Sauvignon’s in their 2009 Barkan Altitude series. Over 30 wine writers and bloggers were invited from all over Israel to witness what is a major accomplishment in Israel, getting approval for a large visitor center on agricultural land.
Since vineyards are considered agricultural land and wineries are industrial and visitor centers are commercial, it is most often a bureaucratic nightmare in Israel to get all three together in one location. Many other countries have created land use exemptions for wineries due to their unique value and ability in attracting foreign tourists. So, even though many wineries have floundered in Israel for years in a byzantine quagmire, Barkan’s spacious visitor center has blossomed into what promises to be a tourist attraction capable of handling multiple tours at once. The centerpiece, literally and figuratively, of the new center is a theatre in the round that can seat 50 guests in an IMAX style setting which presents a 10 minute film on Barkan wines in a choice of five different languages: Hebrew, English, Russian, French & Spanish.
The visitor center and gift shop are open from 9am to 5pm Sunday to Thursday and from 9am to 1pm on Fridays before the Sabbath. As a kosher winery, the winery will also be closed on religious holidays and national holidays in Israel. The Barkan staff expressed their interest in extending their hours on a case by case situation with arrangements made in advance so evening events are possible and an adjoining restaurant is expected to open in the Fall.
The evening was also an opportunity to introduce the visiting press to Barkan’s new release of their 2009 Barkan Altitude Cabernet Sauvignon wines. The Altitude series is Barkan’s second tier of wines, just under their top tier Superieur series, from three different vineyards at three different altitudes in Israel’s Galilee wine region, one of Israel’s most recognized appellations. Strategically the wines are located about the same place in Barkan’s portfolio as Carmel or Yarden’s upper tier single vineyard wines.
Those familiar with Israeli wines are probably aware by now of the axiom that “ with altitude you gain latitude.” WIth Israeli vineyards situated between 29 and 32 degrees North latitude and most of the world’s better wines within the 35 to 45 degree latitude belt (both north and south of the equator), it’s an important key to understanding why Israel can produce good and great wines from grapes harvested from vineyards at altitudes of 400 to 1100 meters (1312 to 3600 feet).
The three Altitude Cabernets are from vineyards at 412, 624 and 720 meters respectfully. So being that 100 meters is about 328 feet and under the postulation that 5 feet provides the weather of about 1 mile in latitude, 100 meters is about 65 miles in latitude so even though the vineyards might be within a 30 minute drive their microclimates emulate vineyards that are up to 3 three hours away on a north to south route and 260 to 468 miles north at sea level. One degree latitude equals about 69 miles so 260 miles to 468 miles is about 3 to 7 degrees latitude putting many Israeli vineyards in microclimates similar to low lying vineyards in a belt of a more enviable 33 to 39 degrees.
Tasting the wines, they are remarkably different with the lower altitude 412 being the most accessible from the bottle and the 624 and 720 needing far more time to decant in the glass. The 412 was lighter in color looking as if it was aged longer or maybe had less extraction with the skins but was most probably just a result of warmer temperatures at the lower elevation. The 624 appeared to mimic a Cabernet Franc at first tasting with bracing acidity and floral notes accompanying Black Currant and Plums with hints of vanilla, coffee and dark chocolate. As it decanted, the acidity softened and floral notes gave way to more black fruit as the wine started to tease with what promise it will offer as it ages. The 720 was the tightest offering, still being reclusive after a 1/2 hour in the the glass but starting to lift up its skirts after an hour to show the complexity, balance and muscle one expects from a New World Cabernet.
A fine catered meal accompanied the three Cabs, a major feat in its own right since the promising visiting center restaurant is still a shell of its future self without any stoves or ovens. Featured with the red wines were three distinctive dishes to suggest the range the Cabs can pair with food. As a starter was a Crispy Duck Salad with Baby Green Leaves, Red Plums & Beets in a Balsamic Pomegranate Reduction Sauce. The second course was rich Veal Bone Marrow in Beef Stock with Ravioli. The last savory dish was a Sliced Spice Encrusted Sirloin with Barley Risotto & Figs in a 720 Reduction Sauce. The suggestion that these three wines belonged on wine lists in fine dining restaurants wasn’t lost on this writer.
CEO Shmuel Boxer, Senior Winemaker Ed Salzburg and Winemaker Irit Boxer-Shank (Shmuel’s daughter) were featured speakers during the dinner. Ed departed early as he had been in the vineyards since 5 am and the writers all seemed to be in good spirits at their first of what promises to be many visits to what Shmuel Boxer expects will soon be Israel’s largest winery.
David Rhodes is a California0trained Consulting Sommelier & Wine Educator living in Israel. David has written hundreds of articles about Israeli wine published in the United States and Israel and has hosted events & visits to wineries for tourists, diplomats, chefs, dignitaries and celebrities and has been featured as a guest talking about wine on over 100 radio shows and television stations in North America and Asia.
Check out Israeli wine’s best spokesperson Adam Montefiore on CNN
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Rosé is a tremendously underappreciated wine that goes well with an incredible array of food with the ability to provide welcome respite from the uncomfortable summer heat and humidity. With all due respect to Eric Asimov, while I do sometimes enjoy Rosé during the year Rosé is and always will be the perennial summer wine for me.
As someone who revels in the continuous proliferation of great kosher options for the budding wine lover, I enjoy most varietals and many wine making styles as long as they are well done. However with all that said, during the scorching summer months I find myself reaching for Rosé more often than many of the other fantastic heat-busting available delights such as Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc or even sparkling wines (all of whom provide delightful respite from the terrors of a New York City July or August). With a beautiful pink color, tons of fresh and tart berry fruits, a typically low(er) alcohol content and crisp refreshing acidity, it’s the perfect summer beverage best enjoyed out of doors and well chilled. In my opinion, it also happens to be a wine insanely well suited to the Mediterranean climate and fare, making it another candidate for marketing good Israeli/Mediterranean wines. Added bonuses include a typically low price and extreme versatility, making it a delicious match to most foods (although three recent options are outside the low-priced genre at around $30 a bottle). As you will see from the tasting notes below, Rosé can and is made from almost any red grape including Barbera, Carignan, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese with the more interesting versions coming from Syrah, Zinfandel, Grenache and Mourvèdre.
Rosé (French for pink) is used to describe the wines that fall into the color spectrum between red and white and are produced in a number of different ways. One method of producing Rosé is maceration in which, following crush, the [white] juice of red grapes is allowed to have minimal contact with the grape skins (typically a few hours to a few days) before they are discarded (the longer the contact with the skins the darker in color (and the more full-bodied and tannic) the wine will be). Given the limited contact with the skins, almost no tannins are imparted into the juice allowing the wine to be enjoyed well chilled (see my wine-serving temperature newsletter for the chilling effect on tannin).
Another common method is known as the Saignée method that is a byproduct of making red wine in which the wine maker “bleeds the vats”. If a wine maker desires to increase the intensity of a red wine, they may drain some of the pink juice prior to fermentation resulting in a higher concentration of red juice and a more intensely flavored wine. The drained pink juice is fermented as a separate wine giving us Rosé.
Another, far less common method that usually results in inferior wines, is blending red and white wines which is really only utilized in Champagne where Pinot Noir is added to a Champagne base to create the sexiest of all wines – Rosé Champagne. Another, less common, method is via maceration, in which the Pinot Noir grapes are allowed [very] brief skin contact during fermentation (the methodology utilized for the Laurent Perrier below).
In the United State Rosé is also referred to as blush or White X, with X being replaced by the grape from which the wine in question is produced. An example would be White Zinfandel that, for some unfathomable reason, tends to be a pretty popular wine but remains a wine you should never ever drink. If there were ever a wine that could compete with Bartanura’s Moscato d’Asti for my hatred – White Zinfandel would be at the top of the list (and several rungs above any other potential competitor). Besides its general inferiority, most White Zinfandel wines have an unpleasant bubble gum flavor and almost every kosher version is a poster child for the reason plenty of uninformed folks still think all kosher wines are terrible. According to Jeff Morgan, the postwar popularity of White Zinfandel in the United States is a deciding factor in the disdain many oenophiles have for Rosé. Now, if only Jeff, a renowned expert on Rosé, would add a crisp refreshing Provence-style Rosé to his repertoire we’d be all set! While not set in stone, blush wines are usually those on the slightly sweeter side as opposed to dry and crisp Rosé wines.
As noted above, one of the best things about Rosé is its deliciousness chilled, providing substantial assistance in assuaging the exhausting effect of the heat and humidity. I try to serve Rosé at about 46-50ºF (8-10ºC) – slightly colder than its optimum drinking temperature, which allows the wine to warm up ever so slightly on the table or in your glass as opposed to suffering a too-warm Rosé – never a pleasant experience. Coupled with its relatively low alcohol and extreme food-pairing versatility, Rosé is the quintessential picnic and/or brunch wine, matching beautifully with omelets, chicken salad, fried and lightly grilled fish and most of the other lighter fare which I find myself enjoying as the mercury starts skyrocketing.
While many prefer a little fruit and residual sugar in their Rosé, my personal preference is for exceedingly dry and crisp – a tough wine to find, especially in the kosher world where most Rosé wines are a little fruitier than I like (thankfully this is changing). For many years my favorite Rosé was Tabor’s, made from Cabernet Franc grapes. With this wine apparently no longer being made, I have found the delightful Agur Rosa a decent replacement but it is only sold in Israel. Both Flam and Castel make great versions but they retail for over $30, which, while “worth it”, makes them less than YH Best Buys. My go-to Rosé used to be the Recanati version, but for some unfathomable reason, they are still pushing the 2010 vintage even though it is already a bit the hill, with the 2011 version not expected until August.
Despite Rosé wines unfortunately not being as common in US wine shops as I would like, the kosher consumer’s surging interest in quality wine has effected the world of Rosé as well with new and better versions being introduced on a regular basis. Some of the blame for Rosé’s lack of popularity may lie with the wineries, for which, in many cases, Rosé is either an after-thought or dumping ground for inferior red grapes. While Rosé is inexpensive to make it also has a low profit margin resulting in wineries not investing any serious time or effort. Granted, with the exception of a few Rosé Champagnes, there has never been a “great” Rosé wine and probably never will be, but that doesn’t ever excuse a lackluster effort. In recent years, Israel has seen an increase in the world of Rosé, both qualitatively and quantitatively. To that end, over the last few weeks, I sourced a nice bunch of Rosé wines, most of which I enjoyed and some of which are described below.
Two last things to keep in mind when plunking down for a Rosé: similar to white wines, Rosé wines are meant to be drunk as close to release as possible so always look for the most recent vintage year as they lose their bright, fresh flavors quickly and Rosé is not a wine to be taken seriously – they are meant to be fun – so chill, relax and enjoy!
Castel, Rosé, 2011: Following on the great success of their 2009 Rosé, this year’s version, while different than the 2009 vintage [resulting from a different wine making process], is truly delicious and provides the Israeli wine scene with something it has been lacking – a crisply dry and refreshing Rosé with enough depth and complexity to make it more than a refreshing summer quaffer (although, price aside, it excels in that department as well). A blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20% Malbec (slightly unripe fruit that was cold-fermented). A rich nose of red fruit including strawberries, raspberries and red grapefruit with much of the same on the slightly viscous palate where some pleasing minerality creeps in, coupled with judicious acidity that keeps the fruit in check and makes for great food pairing, all leading into a lingering and slightly bitter finish. Its only Achilles Heel is price (at $30 it’s a tad expensive for a Rosé), a common problem for Israeli wines.
Flam, Rosé, 2010: Made from 100% Cabernet Franc grapes and coupled with the incredible pedigree of the winery, I was sold on this wine before I took my first delightful sip. A rich and ripe nose loaded with strawberry, tart raspberries, pleasing citrus notes, hints of minerals and blooming flowers. The medium bodied palate has much of the same with bright acidity, more lively fruit and minerals. Well made with great balance, this is a delightful wine that is great with food or on its own.
Dalton, Rosé, 2011: A light, easy-drinking and refreshing wine made from a blend of Barbera, Zinfandel with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in for good measure. Fermentation was stopped early to retain a bit of residual sugar that, while more than I personally prefer, makes this refreshing quaffer quite accessible to all, including newbie drinkers. More pleasurable on its own as a refreshing aperitif than with food, with great QPR and enough refreshing acidity to keep the fruit and residual sugar in check, this is a terrific summer pleaser. Bright strawberries, cherries, hint of rose petals and lemons on both the nose and palate. While most Rosé wines are not meant for sophistication, this wine is pure fun – an easy date!
Galil Mountain, Rosé, 2011: While the Yiron remains one of Israel’s best QPR wines and I love the Meron as well, in recent years some of the wineries lower-tiered options have declined a bit in quality and they are no longer the best Israeli option for well-made entry-level wines. That said, this Rosé is a bright and cheerful wine, made for easy and relaxed drinking. Concocted from a smorgasbord of 75% Sangiovese, 13 % Barbera, 10% Pinot Noir, and 2% Syrah, this is perfect for a picnic and very well priced. Plenty of strawberries, tart red berries and plenty of heathery citrus notes, the wine is almost as dry as I like it with plenty of acidity to keep it fresh on your palate, regardless of how high temperatures rise. A slightly bitter finish rounds out this wine and gives it some pleasing bite.
Laurent Perrier, Rosé Brut, n.v.: The only kosher Rosé Champagne made by a “real” Champagne House and a delicious treat (especially as it combines Rosé and Champagne – two of my favorite things). Less obligatory and more romantic (and expensive) than regular Champagne, Rosé Champagne has exploded in popularity over the last decade with more and more Champagne Houses trying their hands at producing this lucrative wine. This version is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes and, as with most Rosé wines, is pretty light on the palate. Loaded with typical yeast, toasted bread and green apple flavors, these accompanied by lush strawberries, cherries and hints of slightly astringent citrus. This is a fun (albeit expensive fun) wine and a great accompaniment to any summer festivities. A real treat!
Domaine Netofa, Rosé, Galilee, 2011: Pierre Miodownick continues the winery’s successes with this delightfully refreshing wine. An easy drinking blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre, with plenty of bright fruit and crisp acidity, combining to provide a perfect summer quaffer. A beautiful nose, redolent of stone fruit, strawberries, a hint of watermelon and nice minerals lead into a light to medium bodied palate with more fruit, citrus and mineral and nicely lingering finish with some pleasing bitterness.
The White festival returns to the Herzliya Marina the evenings of Wednesday, July 4th and Thursday, July 5th, 2012.
The gates open at 6PM and the event goes until midnight with arriving guests welcomed until 11PM.
A wide selection of Israeli & imported white, rosé and sparkling wines will be available for tasting for only 59 NIS including a tasting glass.
So, visitors will able able to taste dozens of wines from over 40 wineries that will be represented from Israel, France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Greece, South Africa, Georgia, the Czech Republic and the United States.
The event is hosted by the Grape Man from Jaffa, the Herzliya Tourism Council and Israel’s Wine & Gourmet Magazine.
Among the Israeli selections will be wines from Barkan, Tishbi, Or HaGanuz, Teperberg 1870, Recanati, Vitken, Gush Etzion, Mond, Zimbalista, Fusion and Spitz sparkling wines.
The picturesque setting along this Mediterranean marina is accessible by the Herzliya train station or Ra’anana, Herzliya or Kfar Sava by taking either the 39 bus (the most direct route) or the 29 bus.
There are over a dozen restaurants within walking distance of the event but there will gourmet cheeses, olive oils, chocolates, artisan breads, desserts, jams and liquors on display for sale at the festival.
So, this is a great opportunity to beat the summer heat into submission with chilled wines in a breezy and picturesque setting while you let your senses travel the world over the course of an evening. Come early if you’d like to pick out your favorite wine to enjoy while the sun sets over the Med and the marina’s fleet of sailboats and yachts.
