It’s summer time and that means it’s time to break out the white wines — which are great deals too! In this week’s Ha’aretz, Israel’s premier wine critic Daniel Rogov tries a few whites.
By Daniel Rogov
In Israel, as in California, nearly all the locally made white wines are made from grapes that have their origins in France – Chardonnay from Burgundy, Sauvignon Blanc from Bordeaux, Viognier from the northern Rhone Valley and Gewurtztraminer from Alsace. Not even the old-timer Emerald Riesling is our own, the hybrid grape being a cross of Muscadelle de Bordelais and White Riesling. With the days growing warmer, it’s time to turn from heavier red wines to more lively and refreshing whites, especially for fish, seafood or chicken meals or with cold salads and small cuts of veal or pork.
Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2006: Full-bodied, opening with subtle aromas of figs, pears and apples, going on to show a generous dash of smoky, toasty oak and then blossoming forth with pineapple, citrus peel and minerals, leading to a creamy and bright long finish. Drink now-2013. NIS 60. Score 92. K
Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2006: As during earlier tastings, this release reminds me of the white wines of Condrieu and shows a thoroughly traditional Viognier personality. Following an aromatic and floral nose, flavors and aromas of ripe Anjou pears, peaches, spring flowers and minerals along with hints of citrus. Lively, clean, fresh and long, the best local Viognier to date. Drink now-2010. NIS 60. Score 91. K
Recanati, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2006: Developed sur lie, partly in new, partly in used, oak barriques, this medium- to full-bodied white shows an appealing buttery nature to highlight green apple, pineapple and nutty flavors and aromas. Complex but lively and with good length. Drink now-2010. NIS 90. Score 90. K
Recanati Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, 2007: Light straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, showing appealing red grapefruit, passion fruit and kiwi fruit, with hints of spices and grassiness. Good acidity keeps the wine lively and refreshing. Drink now. NIS 59. Score 88. K
Flam, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, 2007: An unoaked blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc from the Upper Galilee and 30% Chardonnay from the Jerusalem Hills. Light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with a deeply aromatic citrus and tropical fruit nose. Opens on the palate to show melon, pineapple and green apples. Crisp, lively, just complex enough and with a long fruity finish. Drink now. NIS 62. Score 89.
Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2007: Light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with good balancing acidity and just a hint of spicy wood from the 300-liter French oak casks in which it developed for months. On the nose and palate citrus, peach and passion fruit, those complemented by hints of flinty minerals. Drink now. NIS 55. Score 89. K
Carmel, Viognier, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2007: Developed partly in oak, partly in stainless steel. The color of freshly dampened straw, medium-bodied, showing appealing citrus, peaches and green apples on the nose and palate, those kept lively by notes of minerals and tantalizing hints of anise and cinnamon. Drink now. NIS 62. Score 88. K
Galil Mountain, Avivim, 2006: A blend of 74% Viognier and 26% Chardonnay, aged in French oak for 9 months. Full-bodied, almost buttery in texture, showing ripe pears, summer and tropical fruits on a generous but not imposing vanilla and oaky background. On the moderately long finish vanilla and, creeping in quietly but distinctly, a hint of bitterness that will be appreciated by some and not by others. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 77. Score 88. K
Galil Mountain, Sauvignon Blanc, 2007: Light- to medium-bodied, with citrus, peach and light grassy and mineral overtones, a well-balanced and lively wine that lingers long and nicely on the palate. Drink now. NIS 35. Score 88. K
Tabor, Sauvignon Blanc, Adama, Gir, 2007: Light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with good balancing acidity to keep the wine lively and showing a generous array of peach, nectarine and citrus fruits. Fresh and lively with just enough complexity to keep it interesting. NIS 67. Score 88. K
Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, Yogev, 2007: Unoaked, light- to medium-bodied, with crisply clean aromas and flavors of citrus, pineapple, tropical fruits and a near sweet finish. Not complex but appealing. Drink now. NIS 35. Score 85. K
Tulip, White Tulip, 2007: A somewhat odd dry blend of 70% Gewurztraminer and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, medium-bodied, and but so highly aromatic and fruit-forward that you might think this was a sweet wine. On the nose and palate litchis, tropical fruits, ripe peaches and notes of grass, none of which seem to come together as a coherent whole. Drink now. NIS 60. Score 83.
Tulip, White Tulip, 2007: A somewhat odd dry blend of 70% Gewurztraminer and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, medium-bodied, and but so highly aromatic and fruit-forward that you might think this was a sweet wine. On the nose and palate litchis, tropical fruits, ripe peaches and notes of grass, none of which seem to come together as a coherent whole. Drink now. NIS 60. Score 83.
