Posted at 16:33h in Wine industry by David Rhodes 0 Comments
Often we might talk about Israel being a “New World” region in the “Ancient World” of wine. One of the advantages of not being an “Old World” European region is Israel doesn’t limit its winemakers to what grapes to grow in specific appellations. Israeli winemakers are free to grow whatever varietals wherever they choose and more often than not Israel’s best winemakers and viticulturalists are making great choices as they become familiar with their vineyards and experiment with new varietals or different clones of old favorites. One grape that is showing promise is Malbec. It shouldn’t be surprising. All of the other Bordeaux derived red varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot being the other four) have found homes in multiple vineyards and now Malbec is coming into its own as the star of single varietal wines.
Malbec in its home region of Bordeaux has become rare as it fell victim to frost and other vineyard challenges though it still plays a major role in Cahors. When found in regions outside of France is often used in a supporting role for blending rather than as a star attraction such in California where it’s typically part of “Meritage” wines. It has gained fame, though, and has prospered in Argentina where they gambled and won by betting on a grape varietal that has led millions of their bottles onto shelves and wine lists around the world just as Shiraz has for Australia and Sauvignon Blanc for New Zealand.
The thin skinned grape does better with more sun than either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot grapes might favor. Although too much heat (in contrast to sunlight) can be detrimental to preserving the acidity needed to avoid making flabby wines so higher altitude plots that provide daytime breezes and cool nights can often be ideal templates for Malbec vineyards.
Teperberg 1870, one of Israel’s most prolific wineries, has been “playing” with Malbec and has produced some delightful results. Their first vintage was 2007 and currently their 2009 is on the shelves for 70 nis (or about $20) in Israel. They are the only big producer of Malbec with their current wine coming from their Judean Hills vineyards. They are experimenting with two different clones and are expecting great things from new vineyards in the elevated plateau of Mitzpe Ramon (40 dunams or about 10 acres) in the Negev desert with a total of 100 dunams soon to be on-line. Teperberg’s winemaker Shiki Rauchberger even believes that they might have the potential for multiple single vineyard Malbec releases in the future so that Malbec might become the winery’s brightest star.
Their 2009 Malbec was oak aged in French barrels for 12 months and presents the plum and blackberries one might commonly associate with Malbec. Hints of black licorice and notes of chocolate, coffee and spice make this wine a more than pleasant deviation from the ocean of Israeli and kosher Cabernet’s and Merlot’s in the marketplace.
The Ramot Naftali boutique winery in the Upper Galilee also makes a great example of how Malbec can flourish in Israel in upper altitude vineyards although its much harder to find in Israel and very rare in the United States and elsewhere overseas.
