February 14, 2008
Israeli wines take a big, bold leap forward
Jaded wine palates—and questing ones—take note: there’s exciting stuff going on at your nearby government liquor store, and it’s centred on the Med. Israeli wines have arrived on these shores, with attitude, and about time too. Travelling recently through the vineyards of Israel, I kept hearing, “Why do people keep referring to us as ‘Middle Eastern’ wines? We make Mediterranean wines.”
Then there’s the whole kosher misconception. We’ll get into that another time, but the fact is that after years—decades—of Israeli wines tucked away in the catchall section at LDB stores, they’ve finally got their own home: a special shelf in 23 stores, including the so-called Signature Stores. Ten different wines from three major wineries hit those shelves in a big way just a few weeks ago.
Nobody’s more excited about this than I am, except perhaps Rochelle Golumbia, whose enterprise and determination launched this city’s—and country’s—first ever Israeli Wine Festival in 2006, and who is organizing another one for May 4 in Vancouver.
So now we have a chance to taste some new-generation Israeli wines. “The days when Israel was producing primarily sweet red wines for sacramental purposes are long gone,” says Daniel Rogov, the country’s leading analyst, in the foreword to the 2008 edition of Rogov’s Guide to Israeli Wines (The Toby Press, $26.95), a comprehensive volume like the one by South Africa’s John Platter. Rogov covers the 150-plus wineries in operation, from three-starred Agur in the Judean Hills to three-starred Zemora in the Jerusalem Mountains.
Just arrived in B.C. stores are six wines from Galil Mountain Winery, one from Dalton Winery, and three from the Golan Heights Winery, under their Yarden label. (Some Yarden wines may be familiar to Vancouverites, as a handful were briefly available here many years ago.)
Reds rule, as a rule, but there are some terrific whites, including a fine Muscat for those with a serious sweet tooth. Here’s a quick preliminary taste-through.
Galil Mountain Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($17.83) This white is super-fresh and bright, tingles a bit on the palate, and has an intriguing fresh-thyme aroma and a satisfying full finish. Smooth and soft and supple, it’s way mellower than most New Zealand SBs. The winery’s food-pairing suggestion is for Thai stir-fries or grilled fish. I gulped it with Karen Barnaby’s oyster, kale, and potato soup, and it was heavenly.
Galil Mountain Chardonnay 2006 ($17.83) It starts out with minty-fresh, lemon-zesty aromas. The oak is restrained but the fruit is blatantly out front, just the way a good dinner Chardonnay should be. Perfect for intricate vegetarian dinners, roast chicken, and coq au vin blanc; ideal with simply sauced fish.
Galil Mountain Merlot 2006 ($17.83) Here’s the first of three familiar-variety reds. Light, elegant, and again super-fresh, this has a different style from the date-loaf approach we taste in many domestic or American Merlots. It would be delicious with spring stews loaded with fresh lamb and green onions, mushroom-leek-and-potato gratin, or fresh cheeses.
Galil Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($17.83) Enjoy fantastic fruit to the front, middle, and back palate. After years of scraping your teeth after heavy, oaky California Cabernets, this one is amazing for its fresh, herbal aromas and long but light, fruity finish. There isn’t a wrong note in any of the preceding four, and the price gives you really remarkable value.
Galil Mountain Pinot Noir 2005 ($24.77) Although it’s a year older and costs seven bucks more, the Pinot is worth it. My whirlwind trip through the region last fall makes me think this is pretty typical of the Golan Heights style of Pinot Noir, but it’s not typical of Pinot Noir as we know it, Jim. Big, bold, cherry-juice-sweet, and lovely and round without any harsh edges, it simply slides along the palate, exploding in a full, fat finish. It cozies up to Larzac cheese, Oka and pine nut corn bread, a good choucroute (seafood or sausage), and dozens of other satisfying foods.
Galil Mountain Yiron 2003 ($29.99) Finally (for this round), the Israeli version of Meritage. It’s named after the kibbutz where the winery is located, in the western Upper Galilee. This is a typical Bordeaux blend of 61 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 32 percent Merlot, and seven percent Syrah. It clocks in at a hefty 14.5 percent alcohol, and has the substance to stand up to it, with full, rich aromas; a deep, intense colour; some smoky-leathery but still fruity taste and a lingering finish. It’s near the lower end of the price bracket occupied by many local red Meritage-style wines, and it competes handily.
For this well-travelled palate, these introductory Israeli wines represent a vast leap forward from the sweet (and sometimes even sour) varieties we used to find here. It’s a new era that’s only just begun, much like our own B.C. industry, where the strides made in the last decade or so have been seven-leaguers.
I’ll hold my tasting notes on the Dalton and Golan Heights wines for another time, including for that sensational Muscat. But take my word for it here and now: if that’s your type of tipple, get it while it’s going and before it’s gone.
There are another 147 wineries still to come. Some will surely be part of the upcoming Israeli Wine Festival. As May draws closer, we’ll have more details on what, who, and
